June 



INDIA RUBBER WORLD 



tion should be accomplished with a small hook or notched knife. 



(7.) Pry the fabric loose with a blunt screw-driver or prod- 

 ding tool, laying the four wings or ends back as indicated in 

 Fig. 3. 



(8.) If the injury is fresh and the fabric clean and sound no 

 further buffing is required as the cement will adhere to the clean 

 cured friction between the plys. Further buffing is necessary 

 only when the fabric has been water logged or is dirty. If the 

 inner plys arc water logged, rotted, or exceptionally dirty, one 

 or more plys can be removed, but must be replaced as described 

 in operation 14. Always aim to preserve the inside or band ply 

 as this is the locking ply and holds the repair together. 



(.9.) Repeat operation 2. Skive down to one ply of fabric 

 in order to remove the stiflf joint or hinge. 



CEMENTING. 



(10.) Three coats are applied, allowing each coat to dry 

 thoroughly. The time required depends upon weather condi- 

 tions. Cemented tires should not be placed in a draft as the 

 cement will crust over and remain damp underneath. Cement 

 should not be allowed to dry too long or it will loose its ad- 

 hesiveness. Hang the tire in a clean, dry place, the repaired 

 section on top so that all excess cement can drain. 



(11.) Select the proper size reclaimed fabric 3-ply shoe. 

 Cement this at the same time and place with the tire to drj'. 

 BUILDING. 



( \2.) Place the tire in a building rack or stand and spread the 

 beads apart with bead spreaders. Bring the edges of the in- 

 jured portion together. The cement being tacky, these edges 

 will immediately unite. Cut a small strip of cushion gum and 

 stitch it in the crevice caused by skiving "the edges of the in- 

 jury. Then fit a new piece of building fabric in the section, tak- 

 ing care to make a good fit. This can be easily accomplished 

 by making a pattern or templet of holland liner as it will not 

 stick to the freshly cemented fabric. After the correct size has 

 been determined, cut a piece of building fabric the exact size 

 of the pattern and stitch this into place, trimming any excess 

 fabric with a hook or notched knife. 



(13.) Close up the injury and lock the new fabric in place 

 by bringing the tips of the four wings back to their original 

 position. Stitch them down carefully, starting at the outside 

 and working toward the center. Now cover the edges with 

 strips of cushion gum as indicated by dotted lines in Figure 2. 



(14.) If one or more plys have been removed as indicated 

 in operation 8, replace them with a new ply of fabric. This 

 ply should extend at 

 least 1 inch beyond the 

 extreme outside of the 

 dotted lines in Fig. 2. In 

 the event that it is not 

 necessary to ■ remove a 

 ply, lay the 3-ply re- 

 claimed skived shoe in 

 place, centering it well 

 and stitching it down 

 thoroughly from the 

 center out. Dust the in- 

 side with soapstone and r 



Fig. 3. Lay Four Ends Back. 



e the bead spreaders. 



(15.) Place the tire on the building mandrel. 



(16.) Roll down the edges of the injured portion of the tire 

 which have been previously been brought together in opera- 

 tion 12. 



(17.) Fill in all low spots and crevices caused by skiving, 

 with cushion gum, stitching thoroughly. 



(18.) Cover the cemented section with a layer of 1/32-inch 

 cushion gum. 



(19.) Fill in the portion cut away with tread stock, and 

 stitch thoroughly, perforating the new gum with a pricking awl 

 or porcupine roller. 



CK Side Walls. 



(20.) Trim down the new gum flush with the tire. 



(21.) It is advisable and will result in neater work if the 

 repaired section is buffed lightly with a wire brush or emery 

 wheel. The new gum should be buffed from the center out. 

 Care should be taken not to exercise too much pressure. 



(22.) Cure. 



REPAIRING A LARGE BLOW-OUT. 



When the injury extends over three inches in length, it is 

 usually necessary to lay back the tread. 



( 1.) Be sure of your decision as to the kind of repair to be 

 made before starting the work. 



(2.) Locate the injury and cut away all loose panicles of 

 tread. Some repairmen start their splice in the center of the 

 repair and lay back the 

 tread both ways. This 

 method is optional, al- 

 though the writer be- 

 lieves the single lay-back 

 is more practical as it 

 leaves one end free to 

 work over, and also car- 

 ries the splice away from 

 the hole as this is filled up with gum and is. therefore, yielding, 

 giving movement to the splice with a tendency to loosen up. 

 Where the break is across the tread completelv. make a double 

 lay-back. 



(3.) When you have located the place for the splice, cut 

 across the tire, slanting the cut 45 degrees to give more uniting 

 surface. Cut through the breaker. 



(4.) On non-skid tires, cut the splice on the highest point 

 as this will give better pressure in the mold when cured. 



(5.) Cut under the sides of the tread on both sides with a 

 large notch knife, to the first ply of fabric, one to three inches 

 beyond the end of the break, then peel the tread back, cutting it 

 away from the carcass with a tread knife as you go. 



(6.) Strip the side walls down about one inch from the end 

 of the lay-back on both sides and remove or lay back the side 

 walls if in good condition. Figure 4 illustrates the side walls 

 laid back. , 



( 7. ) In must cases the bead cover is about one inch above 

 the liead. which is cut over the bead with a hooked nose knife, 

 and removed. Should the tire not have a bead cover, trim the 

 side wall off and treat it as though it was there. The new ply 

 of fabric takes the position of the bead cover when removed. 



(8.) Repeat operation 2 under "Repairiui; a Small Blow- 

 Out." . 



(9.) Now buff the outside of the tire including the bead, as 

 previously described. The lay-back tread or side wall can be 

 held out of the way by tying them back, or by a series of fish 

 hooks. If fish hooks are used, grind off the barb and attach 

 the pair together at the ends. 



(10.) Refer to operation 6 under "Repairing a Small Blow- 

 Out." Instead of cutting the band ply, cut diagonally across the 

 outside ply of fabric. If the injury is of long duration, the out- 

 side ply may be rotten. In that event, remove it altogether and 

 perform operation 6 on the second ply. 



(11.) Repeat operations 4, 5, 6, 7. 8. 

 a Small Blow-Oul." 



lid 9 under "Repairing 



BUILDING. 



:, 13, 14, 15, 16 and 



under "Repair- 



12. Repeat operations 

 ing a Small Blow-Out." 



In repeating operation 12. if one ply of fabric has been re- 

 moved, it is advisable to replace this with a new ply placed 

 over the whole repair, ending at the toe of the bead, and ex- 

 tending at least one inch beyond the ends of the diagonal cut 

 shown in Fig, 2. 



(13.) Cut a ply of 1/32-inch cushion gum long enough to 

 build up on the lay-back and come down to the heel of the bead. 



