THE INDIA RUBBER WORLD 



[OCTOBKK 



Scientific Inspection of Raincoats in Shops Manufacturing on 



Section Basis. 



By 11. Thort'e KcssU 



THE solution of every problem in manufacturing depends 

 largely on proper planning. 

 The careful and systematic inspection of raincoats re- 

 quires the same "tactics" one would apply to other commodities. 



To maintain a standard of quality at a time when production 

 standards are being revised from day to day, and if the added 

 production is to be made with apprentice help, it demands a 

 close and constant adherence to instructions. 



Before a new piecework price can be scientifically set, one 

 must make a careful study of both the time element and neces- 

 sary motions. 



When this company made its first deliveries of slickers (now 

 called raincoats) to the United States Government, only one 

 examination was made of the garment. If all the garments 

 were made by competent employes this method properly super- 

 vised would be sufficient. However, the majority of garments 

 are being sewed, cemented and finished by workers who but 

 recently have become acquainted with this trade. Final exam- 

 ining alone does not prevent the poorly stitched or cemented 

 seam. 



For the reason just outlined, we introduced into our shops 

 sectional inspection with decided success. To make the method 

 clear, we refer to the various inspections as sectional inspection, 

 departmental inspection, and final inspection. 

 SECTIONAL INSPECTION. 



In each division is an inspector whose sole duty is to see that 

 those parts of the garment sewed or cemented in that section 

 are all in accordance with government specifications both as to 

 ■measurement and quality. Records are kept in each shop which 

 indicate the clock number of employe working on every part of 

 the garment. The inspectors are responsible to the management 

 —not the shop manager or foreman of the section. In case 

 the work of any employe is not up to standard, the inspector is 

 instructed to call the section foreman's attention to the un- 

 satisfactory work. If the work complained of is not remedied 

 at once, the inspector's duty is to report the matter to the shop 

 manager. The poor work Ts then reported directly to the gen- 

 eral manager, providing the shop manager does not improve the 

 work. 



DEPARTMENTAL INSPECTION. 



In each shop there are a number of departmental inspectors 

 who look over the garment for either poor cementing or un- 

 satisfactory sewing. Each inspector examines the coat only 

 for defects in the department he represents. This means that 

 each garment is handled by two different departmental inspec- 

 tors. 



While this is a duplication of work in handling the garment, 

 it has secured better results and will be continued until the 

 working force is thoroughly competent. A thoroughly compe- 

 tent force would mean that gross rejections should not exceed 

 six per cent. 



FINAL INSPECTION. 



The final inspection is guided by the following instructions : 



EXAMINERS' INSTRUCTIONS. 



GOVEJNMFNT RAINCOAT. (.SPECIFICATION No. 1317.) 



ripht and left sleeve 

 Bottom Vj inch D. 

 Strapping top sleeve 

 Cementing under sle 





3. Shoulder tabs: 



a. Two inches at shoulder seam. 



b. Tapers to IH inches at top. 



c. Top 54 inch from stand. 



4. Collar: 



a. Top — 4 inches wide. 



b. Cementing; special attention. 



c. Tabs securely tacked. 



d. Test buttons. 



c. Turn top collar — note undercollar stitching. 



f. Stitchilig undercollar at corners. 



g. Test hanger. 



5. Yoke: 



a. 12]/i inches deep from bottom stand. 



b. Bottom yi inch D. S. — raw edge. 



c. Stitching at bottom. 



6. Eyelets: (4) Left. 



7. Side seam — cementing — right. 



8. Pocket: Left, 



a. Opening 7'/, inches. 



b. Inside stitching, 13H inches by SH inches. 



c. Three rows stitchitig, 3/16 inch apart, 



d. Test tacking top and bottom. 



9. Clasp: Right. 



10. Bottom: 



a. Hemmed 'A inch D. S. 



b. Stitching at corners and across bottom. 



11. Left facing: 



a. Fly, 29 inches long, 4 inches at second take-up, 



b. Stitching of fly. 



c. Take-ups securely riveted. 



d. Bottom of fly tacked. 



12. Pocket: right same as No. 8. 



13. Eyelets: (4) right. 



14. Side team cementing right. 



15. Turn coat inside out. 



16. Right facing: 



a. Compare length. 



b. Clasps and take-ups even. 



d. Button even with button-hole, 8 inches from bottom. 



17. Strapping: 



a. Width 1% inches. 



b. Shoulder seam. 



c. Armhole. 



e.' Pocket 



f. Ventilation. 



g. Side seam. 



Test all jfra/>/'iMS. 



18. Contractors' stamp — must be distinct. 



19. Turn coat— see No. 17. 



20. Test caps on take-ups. 



21. Put your number under yoke. 



There may be some difference of opinion as to the proper 

 method of examining a garment. In connection with our study, 

 we asked a score of examiners to show us their methods of 

 handling a garment. A careful comparison of our notes indi- 

 cated that no two men handled the coat alike. 



Our next step was to conduct a written examination to learn 

 which parts of the garment were overlooked. 



For several months, each final inspector has handled the coat 

 in the order outlined in the instructions. Each week all inspec- 

 tors are called together and a report is read giving the total 

 number of rejects received from the quartermaster during the 

 previous week, the percentage, the reasons for their return, and 

 the number of rejected garments examined by each inspector. 



After reading the weekly report, the accumulated totals are 

 read and the standing of each inspector both as to quantity and 

 quality is determined. 



.\ minimum rate is paid all examiners ; promotion and in- 

 crease in pay is entirely determined from their record as shown 

 by rejection reports by inspectors. 



After a shipment of rejections is received and the count is 

 verified, the following information is secured: number of coats 

 rejected by reason ; number of coats rejected by shops and 

 reason; number of coats rejected by inspectors. 



These figures are posted to a report with accumulative totals 

 and percentages. 



Each sectional, divisional, and final inspector is shown re- 



