'74 



IRISH GARDENING. 



NOVEMBER 



The Month's Work 

 The Flower Garden. 



By J. H. Ci Ji.MiNG, Overseer, Royal Dublin Society, 

 Ball's Bridge. 



WINTERIXG BEDDING PLANTS.— In many 

 cases cold pits and frames are all that can be got 

 for wintering flower garden plants. In these 

 structures the principal object to be secured is dr_vness, 

 because damp is a far greater enemy to such plants, 

 and one more difficult to combat, than frost. On this 

 account try and avoid sinking pits and frames below 

 the ground level unless the drainage is good and the 

 walls made water-tight with cement. A strong point 

 necessary to success in wintering plants without the 

 aid of fire heat is that of preparing them properly in 

 autumn, and by the coolest system of propagation. 

 Striking cuttings early and exposing them to the open 

 air enables them to become robust and ripe, and there- 

 fore are not so susceptible of injury from cold and 

 damp. When the plants aje first put into the pits to 

 secure them against frost, have the lights drawn off all 

 day when the weather is dr}', and no water should be 

 allowed on the leaves; indeed the plants may be kepi 

 dry to the drooping point. This matures the growth, 

 so that a cold, damp period has not the same chance to 

 injure it. When severe and continuous frost prevails 

 keep the glass covered, and be very cautious in un- 

 covering and exposing the plants to light when a thaw 

 comes. To uncover suddenly exposes the plants to a 

 trying reaction, which is often injurious. It should be 

 delayed till the temperature inside has risen above 

 freezing a few degrees, and then only remove the 

 covers gradually. 



Perpetlal Floweri.ng C.\rn.\tions — These are 

 sometimes termed American carnations, owing, I pre- 

 sume, to their being grown there more extensivel}' 

 than on this side of the -Atlantic, and we are, moreover, 

 indebted to our American friends for some beautiful 

 varieties raised by them. Distinct in appearance from 

 malmaisons, they also require special treatment to do 

 them well, and the return in flower is certainly much 

 more plentiful than from malmaisons. The best time 

 to begin striking the cuttings is October and early in 

 November. Prepare small pots, and fill with a compost 

 of fibry loam, fresh leaf soil rubbed through a half-inch 

 sieve, and some silver sand ; add also a little lime 

 rubble and broken crocks to keep all porous. This 

 same mixture will apply all through the growing period. 

 When the cuttings are being prepared, split half an inch 

 up from the bottom of the stem and dip in silver sand 

 to keep the cut open, as it is from there that roots are 

 emitted. Place three cuttings in a three-inch pot, and 

 plunge in a hot-bed till rooted. When ready for a 

 change, pot each cutting into a four-inch pot in the 

 mixture already noted. Pinch in the following March 

 down to about six inches high. This will be the only- 

 stopping necessary. The final potting will be into six 

 to eight-inch pots, and the soil for this should have the 

 addition of a little fibry peat and broken charcoal. The 

 loam should also have some of the finer soil left in. 

 One great secret of success is to ram the soil hard in 

 the pots. Soft potting is useless and spells failure. 

 Place out in cold frames in April, and on all favourable 



occasions take off the sashes and give all the sun 

 possible. Remove the plants in August into a cool 

 house where plenty of air can be given, and grow cool 

 all through the flowering period. The quantity of 

 flowers from each plant is surprising, and a strong 

 recommendation is the delicious scent that many of the 

 varieties possess. 



Bulbs. — These should all be in the flower beds this 

 month. Surplus bulbs, chiefly narcissus, are useful 

 planted in patches round the shrubberies, and crocuses 

 and snowdrops in scattered groups round the margins 

 of lawns, where mowing can be delayed till the growth 

 is ripe ; bare places under trees where grass will not 

 grow can be planted wiih ivy, and bulbs may be 

 planted among the ivy. The lovely Chionudoxa grandi- 

 flora, with its soft-blue and white flowers, is one of our 

 first harbingers of spring, and is at home in the rockery 

 and by the edgings of walks. Where flowers of nar- 

 cissus are wanted early for cutting fill a number of 

 boxes, and after they are started into a growing state 

 bring them on in a gentle heat and keep near the glass. 



Trees .\nd Shrubs.— The planting of these should be 

 pushed forward now. Culuneaslcr simonsi, C. hurizoii- 

 /«/«, and the fier)' thorn, L'ratcegus Pyracatitha Lalaiidi, 

 are splendid shrubs for making a warm glow on a wall 

 during late autumn and winter. These, like the fruit 

 crop, are full of berries this season, and are very 

 ornamental. Observant gardeners w'ill have noted during 

 the year shrubs and trees that would suit their require- 

 ments, and now is the time, if possible, to secure them. 

 I would here put in a plea for the planting of deciduous 

 spring-flowering shrubs. Their delicate tints and airy 

 appearance when in flower demand more attention. 

 They bloom at a time when the surroundings of the 

 spring garden are less rich than the autumn garden, 

 and even where masses of evergreens prevail a due 

 proportion of the freer flowering deciduous shrubs 

 lighten up the whole in a pleasing manner. Rhodo- 

 dendrons can be moved and planted any time when at 

 rest, and November is a desirable month for the work. 

 To grow them well, there is no doubt that a peaty soil 

 is best. ."Around Dublin there is too much lime in the 

 composition of the soil, and without special preparation 

 cannot be grown with any degree of success. All who 

 can procure a peaty soil should, of course, do so, but 

 rhododendrons are very often grown very well without 

 it. In some places a light loam exists without lime, and 

 with the addition of leaf-mould and decayed vegetable 

 matter a suitable soil can be made. The first summer 

 after planting mulch the surface of the soil with half- 

 decayed litter, such as leaves, and watering must be 

 done in dry weather. A top dressing spread over the 

 beds of some rich compost, such as cow manure and 

 loam in equal parts, is an excellent reviver when they 

 show signs of weakness. 



The Rock G.\rde.n'. — Many who possess a rock 

 garden think they have nothing to do at this season, 

 and their enthusiasm only returns when flowers begin 

 to appear in spring. Meanwhile, many choice alpines 

 have disappeared owing either to the weather or slugs. 

 It is well, therefore, to see if anything can be done ere 

 it is too late. Damp is responsible for more losses than 

 anything else. This may be caused by their own or 

 overhanging tree leaves smothering the crowns. All 

 loose, dead leaves should be cleared away, as they only 



