176 



IRISH GARDENING. 



NOVEMBER 



permanent trees, and commence to bear a few years 

 after being planted, increasing in yield as they do in 

 size. These I much prefer to branch at from about 

 12 inches of the ground. To my mind they are prefer- 

 able to either half or whole standards, as on them finer 

 fruit can be produced, and are not so liable to suffer 

 from high winds ; they are also more easily got at for 

 the purposes of pruning, fruit picking, &c. Between 

 each of these trees a dwarf tree may be planted. These 

 produce fruit from the first year of planting, and by the 

 time the permanent trees commence to encroach on 

 them will have well repaid themselves. These are 

 generallv grown on Paradise stock, but may be grown 

 on Crab if proper kinds are selected and root-pruned 

 regularly. The intervening spaces may be planted 

 with gooseberries or strawberries. Gooseberr}^ bushes 

 at six feet apart in the row, two rows to be planted 

 between the lines of apple trees, and one bush between 

 the trees in line with them. If strawberries are planted 

 thev should be put in in rows two feet apart, and plants 

 one and a half feet apart in the row. Portion of the 

 grounds might be planted with gooseberries and portion 

 with strawberries. Black currants may also be grown 

 (these require plenty of feeding and cooler root run). 



Before deciding on planting with small, soft fruits the 

 market for such must be fully considered. If a local 

 market cannot be had for these, or cheap and rapid 

 transit to a good market, it would be useless planting 

 with such. The ground might and would be in that 

 case more advantageously emplo^'ed in the cultivation 

 of root crops, always bearing in mind that such crops 

 must not interfere with the proper growth and cultiva- 

 tion of the fruit trees. They must not be allowed to 

 rob them of food and, above all, moisture, and when 

 working amongst such crops take care that the spade 

 is kept a safe distance from the roots of the trees. 



Planting. — AW kinds of fruit trees can now be planted, 

 this is the best month of the whole year for doing so ; 

 but never do so while the soil is wet, nor jet very 

 frosty ; better defer for a few days. In the meantime, if 

 trees are to hand, have them heeled in carefully, keeping 

 the roots well covered with soil. Before planting always 

 cut away with a sharp knife any bruised or torn roots j 

 also strong, bare roots should be well cut back. But 

 save all fibrous ones, and be careful when treading soil 

 during planting operations that they are not torn away. 



Root-pruning.— Any trees requiring to be root- 

 pruned should be done at once. It is not necessary to 

 wait for foliage to fall, as the sooner they are done now 

 the sooner they will commence to make new roots. 

 They will heal up before hard frosts come on, and 

 start away in spring much better than those done later. 

 This is an operation which might with advantage be 

 more frequently done, so many varieties of apples are 

 condemned for the simple reason that it takes from 

 fifteen to twenty or more years before they come into 

 bearing condition — that is, if left to grow as they please. 

 If these got a ckeck, as could be given by root-pruning 

 when about five years old, and if that did not, do one 

 three years after, we would hear much less complaints 

 of them not bearing. 



Pri NiNG. — As fruit bushes and trees become bare of 

 leaves they may be pruned. Very many may be done 

 this month ; but more of this next month, when fuller 

 particulars will be given. 



The Vegetable Garden. 



By James Bracken, Horticultural Instructor, Co. Cork. 



AP.\THETIC gardeners "take things easy" in 

 /"A November's dreariness, but carelessness or 

 want of energy now makes the difference 

 between mediocre gardening and gardening that is 

 inspiring and a sure source of satisfaction and delight ; 

 for to grow a crop to perfection is the acme of pleasure, 

 when to produce middling crops is only a compound 

 feeling, of which disappointment is a big ingredient. 

 Therefore to get full pleasure from gardens, the work 

 to be done now must be enthusiastically performed. 

 This work is principally preparatory, and like all pre- 

 paratory work is of first significance ; and on this 

 account, by right, November ought to stand at the 

 head of the garden calendar, and not second rearmost. 

 The tillage of land, whether digging, bastard-trenching, 

 trenching, on ridging, ought now to have vigorous 

 attention. Liming of land, another important matter, 

 should also be an especial job, and where necessary 

 the work of draining should be taken in hand. It is 

 also a good season to have walks made or repaired, 

 and there is no belter time to decide to commence 

 gardening, as gardens if newly laid out now, or newly 

 renovated, will be sure to give satisfaction the follow- 

 ing season. 



General Work. — Celery ought to be all landed by 

 this date, and if the late crops are unfinished, these should 

 have first attention, as severe frost may now harm the 

 exposed plants. Collect dry leaves in quantity, and store 

 in shelter, so that there may be abundance for forcing 

 purposes. It is nearly always impossible to have a 

 sufficiency of these useful adjuncts when the press of 

 the season comes on. Preparations must now be made to 

 start rhubarb, seakale, asparagus, and French beans. 

 Rhubarb and seakale stools may be covered in the open, 

 taking care that the heating is not over violent to stai t. 

 Roots of these crops may be also lifted, and, where such 

 facilities are, maj' be placed in gentle heat, as in a 

 mushroom house. This work must be repeated about 

 every ten days or a fortnight, because where there is a 

 steady demand for these crops (and where is there not?) 

 the starting of successional batches of roots must have 

 regular attention. (For treatment of seakale .see last 

 month.) Asparagus requires a temperature of about 

 70 degrees F. to start growth at this season. For 

 forcing, strong plants four years old are usually 

 selected. French beans may be started in pots in a 

 warm house of not less than 6c. degrees F. Take 

 advantage of frost to have manure wheeled oil plots 

 about to be tilled, and if not already done, finish the 

 storing of carrots and beet. In favoured localities and 

 in warm positions facing south a sowing of William I. 

 improved peas may be made, and also a sowing of 

 early Mazagan beans, but it is scarcely worth trying 

 these unless in very sheltered sites, as the sowings of 

 early spring are generally better and quite as early. 

 If attempted now sow in the beginning of the mouth, 

 and make rather thick sowings, the peas about four 

 feet apart and the beans about one foot and a half or 

 two feet. Continue to protect cauliflowers coming into 

 heart, and to plant lettuce in warm spots and in tomato 

 houses, &c. During severe winters parsley will require 

 protection of some kind. 



