AP.1IL 



IRISH GARDENING. 



63 



two stocks b;^ slitting- the bark at some point where a 

 scion is not to be inserted ; if the bark parts readily and 

 cleanly from the wood this is a sufficient indication that 

 grafting- may proceed. With a good, sharp saw cut the 

 stock at a suitable point, make a slightly slanting cut 

 downwards, being- careful not to split or tear the bark ; 

 prepare the scions by cutting- into lengths of about 

 five inches, the upper part of scion to have three or four 

 buds, and the lower part must be cut with a sloping 

 splice cut (as at Fig. 2). Commence opposite or imme- 

 diately below a bud, a small notch cut across the upper 

 end of the cut serves to keep the scion steady on the 

 stock ; now slit the bark on the stock to a depth 

 slightly greater than the cut part of the scion, raise the 



Fig. 2. 



bark with the handle of a budding knife, or a thin piece 

 of wood cut wedge shape and quite smooth ; carefully 

 insert the scion under the bark, being careful to have 

 the cut portion in close contact with the wood of stock 

 (at two or three points at least), then bind up the stock 

 with stout strips of raffia (or very strong worsted may 

 be used instead), sufficiently tight to keep the scion 

 quite firm and steady on the stock ; do not bruise the 

 bark of stock with the tying, and only commence tying 

 when two or whatever number of scions are to be 

 worked on the stock have been inserted. After tying 

 on the scions carefully close the slits to exclude air and 

 wet, also wax over the head of the stock, and any fresh 

 cuts on top of scion. If clay is to be used, gradually lay 

 on the clay until a good sized ball of it has been worked 

 around the grafts, including head of stock ; thus proceed 

 with the various stocks until the whole are got through 

 with as little delay as possible. In case of trees that have 

 had the various branches or a suitable number headed 

 back, as previously advised, one or two scions w-orked 

 on each brai-ich is quite sufficient, and if desired two or 

 three different varieties may be worked on the one- 

 headed back tree. As an illustration of this, a few 

 years ago I advised regrafting a very ancient-looking 



French crab apple tree, and it was grafted with 

 AUington Pippin, Newton Wonder, and London Pippin. 

 I saw the tree at the end of last summer carrying a 

 splendid crop, each variety being very well represented 



The Vegetable Garden. 



By William Tyndall. 



THIS is one of the most important months of the 

 year to the grower of vegetables, and it is 

 important that every opportunity be taken when 

 the ground is in a fit condition to get seeds sown, as if 

 let slip it often causes disappointment afterwards. 

 During April many kinds of vegetables require to be 

 sown or planted, and any work recommended to be 

 done in March and not yet completed should be got 

 through at once if at all possible. I am afraid that up 

 to the middle of last month slow progress was made in 

 getting in crops on account of bad weather. In sowing 

 seeds I much prefer sowing in lines instead of broad- 

 cast, as then the plants can be hoed between and the 

 ground kept clean. The more the surface-soil is 

 worked the better the crop will do. If sown broad- 

 cast the crop must be kept free of weeds by hand- 

 picking, and this process is tedious and expensive. 

 Spring cabbage and winter spinach are much benefited 

 by a dressing of nitrate of soda ; to the first mentioned 

 a small teaspoonful to each plant, and soot and wood- 

 ashes mixed to the spinach. Both crops should be 

 frequently hoed to encourage growth and keep down 

 weeds, annual kinds of which if not attended to would 

 ripen their seeds and increase quickly. 



Plant out during the month, as weather permits, 

 cauliflower, lettuce, onions, leeks, and sprouts raised 

 under glass, having them carefully hardened off" as 

 advised last month, so as to prevent too great a check 

 on growth. Select dull or showery weather when 

 planting. Successional sowings of peas should be made 

 during the month, selecting mid-season varieties, and 

 also a sowing of broad beans. In light soils I prefer to 

 sow in trenches opened one and a half feet wide and deep 

 with a foot of manure at bottom of trench, then covered 

 with four or five inches of soil and walked over to make 

 firm. Sow pea seed thinly, and cover about three inches 

 deep. Sow beans in a double line nine inches apart. 

 When growing give plenty of water and liquid manure in 

 dry weather, ever remembering never to apply liquid 

 manure to plants when the soil is dry. First give a good 

 soaking of clear water the evening before. 



Make a couple of sowings of cabbage, cauliflower, 

 broccoli, kale, turnips, Brussels sprouts, savoy, and 

 lettuce during the month for a succession. About the 

 middle of the month sow carrots, and by the end of the 

 month pickling onions. 



Cardoons. — There are two ways of raising plants of 

 this vegetable, sowing direct on well-prepared trenches 

 deeply dug and well manured. The trenches may be 

 two feet wide and deep, and always break up the 

 bottom of trenches by digging or forking, never leaving 

 them hard, as is so often done. Put in about fifteen 

 inches of well-decayed manure, and five inches of soil 

 over it ; make firm and sow two or three seed together 

 at every couple of feet along the trench, thinning to one 



