IRISH GARDENING 



47 



The Month's Work. 



The Flower Garden 



By John Whytock, Gardener to Colonel 

 Crawford, Crawfordsburn, Co. Down. 



SPRING bedding plants, such as Myosotis. Double 

 Arabis, Violas, &c., that were planted early in the 

 autumn, owing to the unusual mild winter that 

 we have had, will soon be gay with flower. In 

 dry weather the beds and borders containing 

 spring flowering plants should be gone over and 

 hoed and made tidy, and any plants, such as 

 Hyacinths and Tulips, that require it given a 

 stake to prevent them from getting broken with 

 the rough winds that are prevalent this month. 



Lawns. — The grass should be gone over and 

 thoroughly swept, so as to clear off any gravel 

 or stones that may be on it previous to starting 

 mowing. Tennis and croquet grounds should be 

 kept regularly rolled. 



Box Edgings should be gone over and 

 clipped, and any that require it relayed : also all 

 walks that require it should be re-gravelled and 

 rolled. 



Herbaceous Bokdehs. — Any work that hail 

 to be abandoned last month in the way of planting 

 owing to rain should be finished as soon as 

 possible, and now that a good many subjects 

 are starting to throw up their young growths, a 

 careful watch should be kept for slugs, as they 

 are very hard on such plants as Delphiniums, 

 Pyrethrums, &c. A good plan is to give those 

 plants that they are fondest of a good coating of 

 sand. 



CARNATIONS. — Border varieties that have been 

 wintered in cold frames should be planted out 

 towards the end of the month in their flowering 

 quarters, the ground having previously been 

 prepared for them by being deeply dug and some 

 well-rotted manure and old vegetable matter 

 worked into the bottom. Before planting, the 

 surface of the beds should be given a good 

 sprinkling of soot, which should be lightly forked 

 in ; this acts as a stimulant to the plant, and also 

 helps to kill any grubs that may be in the soil. 



Sweet Peas. — Those sown in pots in the 

 autumn or early in the new year, and brought on 

 in frames, should be planted out in trenches that 

 have been prepared some months before for them, 

 by deeply working and manuring. A good plan is 

 to give the ground where they are to be planted 

 a good dressing of soot a week before planting, 

 and forking it well into the soil. A sowing outside 

 as a succession should also be made. 



Pentstemon. Calceolaria, Violas, and other 

 hardy plants that were propagated and wintered 

 in frames should be planted out where they are 

 to flower, so as to make room for seedlings and 

 other plants being pricked off into them. 



Dahlia Tubers should be put in heat to 

 encourage growth for cuttings. Propagate 

 Lobelia, Heliotrope. &c, according to require- 

 ments. Bulbs of bedding Begonias should be 

 started in a little heat, afterwards planting them 

 out in frames. 



Bedding Geraniums should be potted and 

 mossed. They do as well mossed as potted, and 

 take up much less room. Any varieties that are 

 scarce should have their tops taken off and 

 propagated. They strike readily in a little heat 

 at this time. 



Annuals. — Most of the half-hardy annuals 

 should be sown this month. They should be sown 

 in heat, and when ready pricked off into frames 

 for bedding out later on. 



Hoses. — Towards the end of the month any 

 mulching that has been on all winter should be 

 taken off, and all climbing varieties should be 

 gone over, and any growths that require tying- in 

 done. 



The Fruit Garden* 



By D. McIntosh, Gardener to Alderman Bewley, 

 Danum, Rathgar. 



EARLY Vines. — The stoning process should take 

 place during this month. This process is easily 

 observed by the non-swelling of the berries, in 

 which case it is important that the temperature 

 should be slightly decreased, but kept as regular 

 as possible. A high temperature, especially with 

 early closing, must be guarded against, as it 

 would only result in producing a large amount 

 of useless surplus growth. The night temperature 

 should not rise above 60° on cold nights and 85° 

 by sun heat, closing with a temperature of 75°. 

 At the commencement of stoning it is beneficial 

 to give the borders a watering of clear lime- 

 water. Allow all laterals to grow until the berries 

 again begin to swell. 



Mid-Season Vines. — These will require close 

 attention now as to pinching out the points of 

 the shoots as soon as they have made two leaves 

 beyond the lowest bunch, and stopping all side 

 growths when they have formed one leaf the size 

 of a shilling. Shoots that are apt to come in 

 contact with the glass will require a piece of 

 raffia tied near the points and slung to the 

 wires, but be careful not to tie them down to 

 the wires until the bunches are coming into 

 flower, otherwise the shoots will be liable to break 

 off. Only one bunch should be left on each 

 shoot, as soon as can be seen which is the lies) 

 one. If it is estimated that the crop is still too 

 heavy, remove the smallest and worst-shaped 

 bunches. Should red spider make its appearance 

 sponge the affected leaves with weak Gishurst 

 compound or soft soap and sulphur, and syringe 

 forcibly afterwards with clear soft water between 

 the bunches. 



YOUNG Vines. — This is a suitable time for the 

 planting of these canes. If they have been grown 

 in pots, it is well to allow the soil in the pots to 

 become moderately dry a few days previous to 

 planting. Turn the plants out of their pots and 

 shake the soil from the roots. Carefully spread 

 out the roots along near the front of the house, 

 and cover first with a little leaf-mould and sand, 

 afterwards filling in with the ordinary vine 

 border compost. Give sufficient water to moisten 

 the soil, and cover with a little long manure. 



Outdoor Peaches. Nectarines and Apri- 

 cots. — As these trees expand their blossoms very 

 early, it sometimes happens if the weather is 

 cold and dull the bees cannot visit the flowers, 

 and consequently they do not become properly 

 fertilised. If, therefore, it is noticed that the 

 bees do not visit the flowers at the time of open- 

 ing, it is highly desirable to fertilise by hand. 

 This is easily done by using a camel's hair brush 

 and lightly 'passing 'it over the centres of the 

 flowers to distribute the pollen. This operation 

 should be done when the stamens are dry. 



