IRISH GARDENING. 



59 



bedding stuff which has been wintered indoors, 

 may be put outside to harden off before 

 planting commences. 



A batch of Zonal Pelargoniums may be 

 struck. Cut back some of the oldest plants, 

 and if space is limited throw them away, and 

 make cuttings from the fairly strong growths. 

 Eub out all flower-heads, and with a sharp 

 knife cut straight across, but below, a joint ; 

 remove all lower leaves, and insert the cuttings 

 in a mixture of loam, leaf-mould and sand 

 either singly in 3-inch pots, or several round 

 a 5-inch pot. 



Peaches on walls or under glass will require 

 to be disbudded. This means the removal of 

 some of the shoots. It can be easily seen that 

 in the peach a great many more shoots start 

 to grow than there ever would be room for 

 later on, also that some of these shoots come 

 out on the very front of the branches and others 

 at the back. These front and back shoots 

 must be removed when young, and this can 

 be easily done by rubbing them backwards ; 

 they can never be trained in a satisfactory 

 manner. It is the side shoots that must be 

 encouraged, and which will eventually be 

 brought in to fill up and take the place of older 

 wood. A very little practice will soon make 

 disbudding quite a familiar operation, but at 

 first a certain nervousness prevails at the idea 

 of removing any of the young growths in case 

 something should happen to those which are 

 left. 



Hints on Growing Daffodils 

 for Exhibition. 



By L. J. Studholjvie, Ballyeighan, Birr. 



It is an undisputed fact that many a prize has 

 been won in the garden and lost on the way to 

 the exhibition, hence it behoves every intending 

 exhibitor to commence preparations for the show 

 in good time. 



Autumn Preparations. — At planting time the 

 question presents itself as to what indispensable 

 exhibition varieties may be too early or too late 

 for a mid-season show. 



To hasten the flowering of late kinds is not 

 difficult, all that is required being a cold frame, 

 if one is not fortunate enough to possess a cool 

 greenhouse. 



To prolong the flowering season of early 

 varieties requires more strategy. Many Daffodil 

 growers advocate late planting, but as show 

 flowers are wanted it is unwise to postpone this 

 important operation. I prefer to put down a few 

 bulbs a little deeper than is customary, selecting 

 if possible a north border. There is, however, 

 always the chance of an exceptionally early 

 spring unsetting all one's calculations. 



Spring Preparations. — Towards the middle 

 of March all beds should be carefully sanded, and 

 it will not be found a loss of time to treat the 

 paths between the beds in the same manner. 



As the stems lengthen they must be carefully 

 staked. Neat wire supports can be purchased 

 very reasonably, which greatly facilitate the 

 somewhat troublesome operation. With these 

 two precautions taken it is possible to avoid 

 linding one's best blooms bespattered with mud 

 or snapped off by March winds. 



The Bed Cups and Poets should be gathered 

 as they open and removed to a shady room with 

 a temperature of 55 to 60 degrees Fahr. If the 



atmosphere of the room is inclined to be too dry, 

 lightly sprinkle the floor with tepid water. 



Every two days change the water in the vases 

 and shorten the stems (if long enough to permit) 

 by a quarter of an inch. 



in this way I have kept flowers perfectly fresh 

 and stiff for nine days. 



Gather the remainder of the flowers two days 

 before the show and let them absorb as much 

 water as possible. 



Packing. — To do this well requires a good deal 

 of skill and practice. 



It is wise to provide oneself with wooden boxes 

 about 33 inches by 15 inches by 6 inches. The 

 bottom and ends should be made of |-inch boards, 

 as it is there that strength is required. In 

 addition to the boxes a good supply of drawing 

 pins and tape should be at hand. Remove the 

 flowers singly from the vases, dry each stem 

 thoroughly, and secure firmly to the bottom of 

 the box by means of the tape and drawing pins. 

 Each flower ought to be fastened down in two 

 places. 



With boxes 33 inches long, both ends can be 

 used for the blooms, and the centre left for the 

 stems. 



Carry a few extra varieties in case of mishap, 

 and do not forget to pack plenty of green in a 

 separate box. 



Staging. — On reaching the show let the 

 flowers be unpacked immediately and placed in 

 water. With the help of some moss to hold the 

 flowers in the desired position, the actual setting 

 up can be accomplished without much difficulty. 



Try to aim at a natural effect, and do not be 

 sparing in the use of foliage. 



A few Trumpets and Leedsiis might be shown 

 in profile, while the Red Cups and Poets are seen 

 to the best advantage facing out. 



Place all the drooping kinds high up, and 

 reserve the bold Trumpets for the ends of the 

 stand. It is well to have the exhibit as repre- 

 sentative as possible. 



Finally, see that all are correctly labelled, and 

 that each vase contains the requisite number of 

 flowers. 



The Greek Anemone. 



This lovely Anemone should be grown in every 

 garden, but naturalised under trees in quantity 

 it appears at its best, and the beautiful blue 

 flowers last longer than when in the full sun. 



One of the most beautiful forms of this Wind- 

 flower is that known as Anemone blanda 

 scythinica, introduced from N. Kurdistan. On 

 a sunny day the flowers appear a clear silvery- 

 white, but if one sees them on a dull day the 

 reverse of the petals shows a beautiful metallic- 

 blue. The plants seed with the greatest freedom, 

 and quite a crop of self-sown seedlings usually 

 appear around the parent plants. If the seedlings 

 are grown on they will flower in two to three 

 years. The seedlings usually exhibit great 

 variation — some will be just the ordinary blanda, 

 others may be only a washy-blue, while again 

 others will show the beautiful and distinct blue 

 of Anemone scythinica. 



Van Tubergen sends out a very fine form called 

 Anemone blanda atroccerulea. This new variety 

 has flowers, which open very early, of a beautiful 

 deep blue, and are half as large again as those of the 

 ordinary Greek Anemone. The double-flowered 

 Anemone blanda is also very lovely, but it seems 

 a scarce plant, and flowers rather later than the 

 type. The roots of all are tuberous, and they 

 may be increased by division or by seed. 



