IRISH GARDENING 



167 



abundance of red flowers. It can be procured 

 cheaply, being grown in large quantities by 

 leading nurserymen, and is a most desirable 

 shrub for any position. Another hardy form is 

 F. corallina, also of garden origin, and of rather 

 stronger growth than F. Riccartoni. It is not so 

 hardy, however, and may be cut to the ground 

 in severe winters, but grows away strongly in 

 spring, making a fine autumnal display. F. 

 macrostemma, often called coccinea or grandis, 

 is also worth some consideration from gardeners 

 in mild localities. Its only drawback is want of 

 hardiness, coming as it does from S. America. 

 Nevertheless, it will stand a good deal of hard 

 weather without being killed outright, and. like 

 others of its kind, recovers very quickly in spring 

 and summer. 



The dwarf double-flowered Gorse, though 

 rather stiff in appearance, is yet so remarkably 

 free-flowering as to merit inclusion. For a, low 

 hedge surrounding some special enclosure few 

 shrubs are better. Thriving well in soil of very 

 moderate quality, and needing little attention, 

 it is a subject which might be used more 

 freely. 



A Lavender hedge is both useful and beautiful. 

 Its place is more in the garden proper, where it 

 may form dividing lines in the kitchen garden or 

 be used as a background to borders devoted to 

 choice bulbs or other plants. Eejoicing in a well- 

 drained soil and a sunny position, it is a good 

 plant to associate with other sun-loving subjects. 

 Of similar nature, but stronger growing, is the 

 common Rosemary, another old-fashioned plant 

 of great merit as an informal hedge in a suitable 

 position. Perhaps, also, the Jerusalem Sage 

 (Phlomis fruticosa), with its grey-yellow leaves 

 and whorls of yellow flowers, would be equally 

 suitable, and it will grow four or five feet high, 

 and is evergreen. 



The well-known and much appreciated New 

 Zealand Daisy Bush (Olearia Haastii) has claims 

 on our notice for hedging purposes ; neat of 

 habit, dense of growth, and free-flowering, this 

 should make a handsome hedge. The plants 

 require practically no attention, and should not 

 be clipped into round balls, as is sometimes done, 

 as the plant is naturally shapely, and can hardly 

 be improved. Vast quantities of this shrub are 

 grown by nurserymen and offered at a cheap rate. 

 It is particularly recommended for seaside plant- 

 ing, but proves very hardy well north in 

 Scotland. 



The Tamarisk makes a beautiful and effective 

 screen, and forms a delightful background to a 

 summer border of dwarf-flowering plants. It 

 however requires some support, since to be 

 effective it should be pruned hard in spring. A 

 rough post and rail fence would be sufficient, 

 and to this the main shoots can be secured, 

 cutting in the laterals in early spring. In this 

 way a dense wall of beautiful green is formed 

 which is saved from stiffness or formality by the 

 wavy plume-like growths which are characteristic 

 of the Tamarisk. 



Another New Zealander of rare value is 

 Veronica Traversii, a shrub of good form, and 

 usually flowering freely. With age the plants 

 incline to become leggy, but this is easily remedied 

 since quite old plants will break from low down 

 when headed back in spring. This should form 

 a good hedge — bold, but not too formal, and good 

 alike in summer and winter. It is probably 

 as hardy as Olearia Haastii and quite as 

 beautiful. 



Poinsettia pulcherrima. 



Poinsettia pulcherrima is truly one of the best 

 of the Euphorbia family. It has a few good 

 qualities to recommend it : in the first place, pro- 

 ducing its charming bracts of rich vermilion in 

 the dull winter season, a colour seldom seen in 

 any of our winter- flowering subjects. 



Then again the plant adapts itself admirably 

 for grouping with other suitable flowering or 

 foliage plants in the warm greenhouse. A delight- 

 ful effect may be obtained by mixing them with 

 Calanthe Veitchii, both remaining in bloom for 

 a period of two months. 



To obtain good results a little more than 

 ordinary care is needed in cultivation. Sudden 

 changes in temperature in either direction will 

 often cause them to loose their lower leaves, 

 which gives the plant an unsightly appearance, 

 severelv diminishing the size of the flower heads. 

 Plants retaining their foliage till the end of 

 the season is an indication of careful culture. 

 Operations should commence about the month 

 of April, after the plants have had their usual 

 rest beneath the stage. They should be brought 

 out and placed in a light position near the glass 

 and well watered to produce cuttings. These 

 should never be allowed to get more than two inches 

 long. When taken off with a sharp knife close 

 to the old plant, placed snugly in small pots filled 

 with light sandy soil, they will root readily in the 

 propagating frame. Much difficulty is often 

 experienced in rooting cuttings that are allowed 

 to get too long, consequently weak and often 

 taken at a leaf-joint. So soon as the cuttings 

 are inserted they should receive a good watering, 

 afterwards daily spraying over to keep them 

 from drooping as much as possible. Once they 

 obtain roots they should be removed from the 

 frame to a shelf near the glass for a few days to 

 harden them off. Po£s, lour inches in diameter, 

 should be prepared, thoroughly clean and well 

 drained, ready for the first shift. The soil 

 should consist of good fibrous loam with leaf- 

 mould added, also plenty of good sharp sand. 

 A close frame in a partial shaded position will 

 suit them till the plants have taken possession 

 of the new soil. Care must be exercised in 

 watering at all times, as the plants resent extremes 

 in either direction. Air should be admitted on 

 all favourable occasions, and the plants kept close 

 to the glass, as this tends to keep them dwarf 

 and sturdv. As the season advances, the plants 

 will require their final shift ; this time pots 

 six inches in diameter will be found quite large 

 enough. Overpotting should be strictly guarded 

 against. The compost on this occasion should 

 consist of good fibrous loam with leaf -mould 

 added, also a ten-inch pot full of dried cow 

 manure broken up fine to the barrow of soil and 

 a good supply of sharp sand well mixed together. 

 Pot the plants moderately firm, give a good 

 watering to settle the soil after placing them 

 back in the frame. Once root action has taken 

 place, air and sun should be admitted freely. 

 The plants will only require shading during the 

 hottest part of the day. 



As soon as the cold nights begin they should be 

 removed to their warmer quarters. A little t ceding, 

 alternately twice a week, with Clay's Fertilizer and 

 soot-water will benefit the plants at this stage. 



At the end of the flowering season place the 

 plants in a cool, drv place under the greenhouse 

 stage on their sides. W. H. Green. 



