7^ 



IRISH GARDENING 



from the seedling tree to the mature forest. Seed 

 sowing, various methods of planting, description 

 and use of different species, the management of 

 woods, the valnaiiou of the crop, forest p aas, 

 &e.. are all dealt with in detail. A useful appendix 

 includes legal and other notes on march fences, 

 road fences, quarries, water rights, rights-of-way, 

 &c., also useful land measures, methods of cal- 

 culating areas, laying out areas of various shapes, 

 and content and measuring timber. 



The whole work forms a most useful text-book 

 and work of reference for estate agents, park 

 superintendents, foresters and others engaged in 

 land work of all kinds. 



The Month's Work. 



Southern and Western Counties. 



By W. G.VMPBELL, Head Gardener to Lord 

 Castletown, Doneraile Court, Co. Cork. 



Vegetable Garden. 



May is always a busy month in the vegetable 

 garden, weeds being particularly troublesome. 

 Thin out White Turnips, Parsnips, and any other 

 crop needing thinning. At the same time all weeds, 

 large or small, can be removed from between the 

 plants afterwards giving the space between the 

 rows a good hoeing. 



Peas. — Continiie to sow main crop Peas, draw 

 the earth up to earlier sown varieties and stake 

 them; peas should never be allowed to fall over 

 for want of staking, as they never afterwards cling 

 to the stakes properly. 



French Beans. — Make good sowings of French 

 Beans. Draw lines 18 inches apart and drop the 

 seed 9 inches apart. Canadian Wonder and Negro 

 long-pod are ))oth good varieties. 



Runner Beans. — The lines 'fp^ these should be 

 ,a,t least 12 feet apart; the gto'und between can be 

 cropped with other vegetables. 



Broad Beans. — Another sowing should now ))e 

 made. As the Autunm sown Beans come into 

 flower pinch out the points of each stalk; this 

 will bring them into podding earlier and prevent 

 attacks of black fly. 



Potatoes. — If planting was not finished last 

 month no time should now be lost in getting in 

 the remainder of the crop; continue to draw the 

 earth up to early planted sorts. 



Tomatoes. — Those intended for planting out-door 

 must now be gradually hardened off by giving 

 more air. Towards the end of the month they can 

 be stood out under a south wall and protected for 

 a few nights when they can be planted in their 

 fruiting quarters. 



Onions. — Give a dusting of soot between the rows 

 as a preventive to onion fly; complete the plant- 

 ing of those sown in boxes, and give a soaking of 

 water if the weather is dry. Make another sowing 

 of short-horn Carrot. This does not seem to be 



affected by cither the carrot fly or wire worm like 

 the larger grown sorts, and the young I'oots are 

 always appreciated. 



Cabbage. — A little seed sown now will come 

 in very useful in the late summer and autumn. 

 Sow Broccoli for May and June supplies; prick 

 out seedlings of Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage and 

 Cauliflowers. 



Salads. — Make a first sowing of Chicory in a 

 deep, rich soil in rows 1 foot apart, afterwards 

 thinning out the plants to 6 inches apart. Lettuce, 

 Radish, Mustard and Cress sow at intervals of a 

 fortnight. 



Vegetable Marrows. — Plant out under frames 

 or hand lights. When all danger of frost is past 

 they will not require any protection. Marrows 

 when growing freely require a lot of water, and an 

 occasional soaking of liquid manure will be very 

 beneficial to them. Cucumbers and Melons grow- 

 ing in frames will require attention as regards air 

 and watering; avoid draiights by admitting air 

 at one end of the frame only. Water used for 

 syringing and watering the plants should be about 

 the same temperature as the air inside the frame. 

 When the plants have made three or four pair of 

 leaves pinch out their points. 



Fruit Garden. 



8o far as can be judged by the crop of blossom 

 the Apple harvest this year should prove a good 

 one. But, of course, everything depends on the 

 weather during the first weeks of May when the 

 blossom is fully open. Pears do not promise so 

 well. Very few trusses of blossoms are to be seen 

 on many of the trees. These remarks apply to this 

 district only. I am not yet in a position to say 

 what the prospects are in other parts of the 

 country. 



Raspberries. — Thin out the suckers leaving the 

 requisite number for next year's crop ; retain the 

 strongest shoots and avoid overcrowding, which 

 would cause the canes to be drawn up and the 

 wood badly ripened; result — a poor crop next year. 



Strawberries. — If not already done clean Straw- 

 berry plots and give: a mulch of strawy litter. 

 Place nets over the beds before berries begin to 

 colour. If Mr. Blackbird once gets the taste of a 

 nice juicy berry they will be well netted indeed if 

 he does not get some more. 



Disbudding. — No time should now be lost in 

 carrying out this most important operation. 

 Plums, Pears and Apricots do not require very 

 nuich disbudding; all that is necessary is to rub 

 off any misplaced shoot. All shoots growing at 

 the back of the tree should be rubbed off. Peaches 

 and Nectarines fruit on the previous year's growth, 

 and sufficient young wood must be left to furnish 

 the tree with fruiting wood for the following year. 

 If tlie trees have covered the space allotted to 

 them stop the leading shoots at the fourth or 

 fifth joint. Spray the trees with quassia or any 

 other good insecticide directly aphis makes its 

 appearance. 



Flower Garden. 



As spring-flowering plants pass out of flower 

 lift them and transfer to their summer quarters. 



