Southern and Western Counties. 



By T. E. To-MALix, Gardener to the Right Hon. 

 The Earl of Bessborough, K.P., Bess- 

 borough, Couuty Kilkenny. 



The Flower Garden. 



Pruning. — The following shrubs, which flower 

 on the current season's growth, should now be 

 pruned : — Buddleia variabilis, Ceanothus azurcas, 

 and its variety Gloire de Versailles, Cytisus 

 Carlieri, Spartium junctum, Tlypei'icuni 

 Hookerianuni, and the late summer and autumn 

 flowering Spireeas. Those shrubs that blossom on 

 tlie previous year's growth should be pruned 

 immediately after flowering. Other subjects that 

 may now be pruned include Golden Yew and the 

 variegated Elders. Escnllonias often outgrow 

 their allotted space, and when this happens they 

 may be cut hard back. They will break freely 

 from the old wood, and will quickly make shapely 

 specimens again. 



About the middle of the month the pruning of 

 Eoses may be connnenced, starting with the 

 stronger growing varieties and deferring the prun- 

 ing of the more delicate Teas imtil early April. 



The Rock Garden. 



The soil l^etween the plants should now be 

 lightly stirred with a small hand fork or a pointed 

 stick, at the same time removing all weeds, de- 

 cayed leaves and other refuse. Plants that show 

 signs of deterioration should be given a top-dress- 

 ing of light, rich soil, and vacant places may now 

 be planted up. A great many Alpines are easily 

 increased by cuttings inserted in sandy soil in a 

 cold frame or handlight, and it is always advis- 

 al)le to have a reserve of young plants coming on 

 for filling gaps, especially of the better and more 

 delicate kinds. 



Annuals for Ijedding that should now be sown in 

 gentle heat, or on a hotbed, include Antirrhinums, 

 Alonsoa, Asters, Salpiglossis, Coreopsis Drum- 

 mondii, Arctotis, Stocks, Lobelia, &c. They will 

 then be ready for pricking out at 3 ins. apart in 

 cold frames in April, although the first three kinds 

 will do quite well if pricked out immediately into 

 tlieir flowering quarters, especially if the protec- 

 tion of a few spruce boughs be given them for a 

 few days. 



The Vegetable Garden. 

 Every effort should now be made to complete 

 the digging and preparation of the ground for 

 the various crops. This work is very much in 

 arrears owing to the continued wet weather, there- 

 fore it will be well to consider which of the plots 

 and l)orders will be occupied first, and let these 

 have first attention as soon as the ground is dry 

 enougli to cultivate. The first early Potatoes may 

 now be planted on a warm border. These will 

 require constant watchfulness when the young 

 shoots push up, over which the soil should be 

 frequently drawn up until they are earthed up to 

 the fullest extent. If the midseason and late varie- 

 ties are in sprouting boxes as recommended, there 



IS nothnig gamed by planting them before April. 



Sow Peas for succession, the variety Gradus 

 benig very suitable for earlv March sowing. 

 After this Peas should be sown at fortnightly 

 intervals, usmg varieties in turn which belong to 

 the succession, main crop and late sections, as the 

 season advances. 



A further sowing of Broad Beans may also be 

 made in drills drawn at o feet apart, sowing the 

 seeds m a doul)le row in the drill at 6 inches 

 apart each way. Parsnips succeed liest on deeply 

 dug ground which was well manured for the pre- 

 ceding crop. The drills are drawn out 18 inches 

 apart, and the seeds dropped in groups of two or 

 three every 9 inches, afterwards thinning the 

 young plants to one at each station. 



Early Horn Carrots require a warm border at 

 this date, and the shallow drills may be drawn at 

 1) inches apart for these small but much appreci- 

 ated roots. 



The main crop of Leeks for transplanting should 

 be sown as earfy in the month as possible. They 

 take longer than most vegetables to germinate 

 and become large enough for transplanting, wliich 

 should be done early in June. 



Autinim sown Onions should ))e transplanted 

 in lines 15 inclies apart, allowing 8 inches from 

 plant to plant in the rows. They succeed best on 

 well-manured ground which has been dug some 

 time previously, and are similar in this respect to 

 the main crop of this vegetable, seed of which may 

 now be sown when the ground is in perfect order, 

 in shallow drills drawn at 1 foot apart. After 

 sowing the seed tread the soil back into the drills, 

 afterwards smoothing over the bed with the back 

 of an iron rake. 



Other seeds that may now be sown outside in- 

 clude early Cauliflowers, Cabbage, Lettuce, Radish 

 and early Milan Turnips. The main crop of 

 Celery should be germinated in gentle heat and 

 when up removed to cool quarters, to be pricked 

 out in rich soil in a cold frame in April, or out- 

 side, where a little protection can be given in the 

 early stage. 



The Fruit Garden. 



Strawberry Beds. — These should now be cleared 

 of weeds and dead fo iage which has accumul- 

 ated since the autumn cleaning. I am not 

 an advocate of digging between the rows, as 

 the Strawberry likes firm ground, but the soil may 

 be hoed over, and in the case of two or three year 

 old beds, a good dressing of short manure may be 

 applied. If no suitable numure is available, give 

 a dressing of superphosphate or bone compound 

 at 3 ounces to the square yard, and supplement 

 this in April with sulphate of ammonia at 2 

 ounces to the square yard. 



The tying and training of wall fruit trees should 

 now be completed as soon as possible, in order 

 that the bursting buds may not receive injury 

 during the operation. 



Early flowering varieties should be given some 

 protection on frosty nights. Light tiffany is the 

 best material for the purpose, but a double thick- 

 ness of fish-netting will answer nearly as well. 



