14? 



IRISH GARDENING. 



Allotments. 



Storing Potatoes.— When the hauhii of the 

 potatoes has died down the crop should be hfted 

 It is not usual to attempt storing any quantity of 

 the early or second-early kinds, but there is a great 

 advantage in boxing at once sufficient tubers for 

 planting next season. Potatoes of the early varie- 

 ties boxed now will give nicely-sprouted tubers 

 early in the spring, and if the boxes are exposed 

 to the light there is little or no danger of premature 

 sprouting, provided the boxes are kept in a cool 

 shed where thev will not be exposed to frost. The 

 maincrop and late kinds can be stored in clamps 

 on the plot. To get the best results from storing, 

 the crop may be sorted over before putting it in a 

 clamp. The small potatoes and any affected with 

 blight should be thrown aside for feeding poultry 

 or pigs. The seed potatoes should be boxed, reserv- 

 ing the cooking potatoes for the clamp. Potatoes 

 before being clamped should be dry and free from 

 soil. It would also be advisable to exclude potatoes 

 which have been injured when lifted. These could 

 be placed in a sack for immediate use. If possible, 

 choose a sheltered spot for the clamp, and the site 

 should be dry and well drained. Then proceed to 

 build the potatoes in a conical-shaped iieap. Do 

 not make a huge pyramid, but travel along the sur- 

 face according to the quantity of potatoes to be 

 stored. The heap should then be covered with a 

 good layer of straw. If the weather is fine, and no 

 appearance of frost, the soil should not be ])ut over 

 the straw for a week or two. It is well known that 

 potatoes heat after clamping, and if the soil is not 

 put on too soon there will be plenty of ventilation 

 to allow the excess moisture to pass away. After 

 the potatoes have heated, abovit three or four inches 

 of soil can be put on the straw, the straw, however, 

 should not be too wet. One of the reasons that 

 potatoes often decay in clamps results from not 

 providing sufficient ventilation. It is important to 

 have plenty of ventilation. The straw need not be 

 covered on the top until frost actuiilly appears, and 

 even then boles should be left along the top with 

 a wisp of straw in. If there is any danger of frost 

 reaching the tubers an extra covering of soil should 

 be placed on. The soil which is dug from around 

 the heap will provide a channel to run the .water 

 away. Should the potatoes show signs of decay it 

 may be necessary to go through the whole lieap 

 and se])arate the decayed and i)artial!y decayed 

 potatoes. In any case it is important to examine 

 the heap occasionally to see how the potatoes are 

 keeping. Potatoes stored in a properly made clamp 

 should keep v.nA\ until the sjjring. 



Genkral Work. — There is a common saying — 

 " One year's seeding makes nine years' weeding," 

 and as many weeds are now seeding, a good deal of 



trouble will lie saved next spring by giving the plot 

 a tliorough clean up, and impressing your neigh- 

 l)0ur allotment holder with the importance of doing 

 likewise. Many allotment holders have a genuine 

 grievance in this case, that adjoining plots are often 

 neglected and sources for spreading weeds through- 

 out the section. In Belfast there is a clause in the 

 agreement between the plot-holders and the Plots 

 Association to the effect that men who do not cul- 

 tivate their plots to the satisfaction of the com- 

 mittee must give the plots up. There is no hesita- 

 tion about removing the man from the allotments 

 who allows his plot to become a mass of weeds and 

 rubbish. Every genuine complaint in this respect 

 is investigated." Weeds will be found chiefly now 

 among the beds of autumn-sown plants, and in the 

 case of cabbages, these plants should be trans- 

 planted in the open gromid. Any plants in reserve 

 should be planted fairly c-losc in small beds. These 

 can be used to fill up the rows in the spring where 

 plants have not survived the winter. We also 

 plant Winter Pearl [.,ettuce out in rows, and treat 

 them much the same as for Cabbages. Autumn- 

 sown Onions should be weeded, and then make the 

 soil firm about the roots, so that the plants will not 

 be lifted out of the ground by frost. Autumn-sown 

 Cauliflowers should be planted fairly close together 

 in a sheltered spot. They are, however, much safer 

 in a frame in the north. Leeks and Celery should 

 have soil drawn towards them as it is required. 

 The soil shoidd l)e dry and well chopped with the 

 spade. If large lumps of wet soil are placed against 

 the stems, decay will follow almost for a certainty 

 in the case of Celery. Brussels Sprouts, Broccoli, 

 and Winter Greens should have soil drawn towards 

 the stems; this will support the plants during the 

 winter, and will also help to keep the surface of 

 the ground open, preventing it from becoming 

 water-logged. As advised last month, vacant 

 ground should be dug over as soon as the crops are 

 taken off. There are many plots where digging is 

 an impossibility in the winter, owing to the state 

 of the ground and short days, when a plotholdcr 

 cannot dig the ground just when the weather and 

 the state of the soil permits this to be done. Dig 

 the soil deeply and leavf the surface in rough 

 lumjis. Insects will be turned up and destroyed, 

 and frost will benefit the land. 



The Flower Border. — It is not too late to take 

 cuttings of Violas, Snaj)dragons. and Pentste- 

 mons. The cuttings, however, shoidd be taken 

 without delay now, because if they are not 

 fairly well rooted before the winter they are not 

 likely to survive. Bulbs may be planted in the 

 flower border now. Tulips. Daffodils, and Crocus 

 are very welcome in the sjiring. Some of the 

 Chrysanthemums may riMiuirc' staking. Herba- 

 ceous plants dying down should have the old flower 

 stems cut off and the stakes removed, tying them in 

 bundles and storing awav for use next season. 



G. H. O. 



The Maid of the Mist — Gladiolus primulinus. 



There is now a race of G. prinnilinus hybrids of 

 much l)eauty giving many shades of yellow and 

 orange, yet the true species itself is well worth 

 growing in our gardens. 



PhnUed at the base of a siuniy wall, if is (|'iite 

 hardy, coming up every year and producing its 

 charming primrose yellow flowers in late Se])tem- 

 ber and on into October. Doubtless, planted in 

 richer soil, finer flowers would be produced, ])ut 

 the corms might not survive the winter, and it is 

 satisfactory to have a plant which will do well 

 when left alone. JJ. 



