IRISH GARDENING 



45 



pull any stalks the first soasou. Early Eed, The 

 Sutton, and Hobday Giant are most excellent 

 varieties. 



Pkas. — Give all Peas growing in boxes for plant- 

 ing out plenty of air to keep them sturdy, and pre- 

 vent them from becoming drawn. Sowings sliould 

 be made outside now on well-prepared ground at 

 the rate of one good row each week till the middle 

 of June. If the proper sct-tions are sown there 

 should be no difficulty in maintaining a continuous 

 supply. The Main Crop Marrowfats take about 

 fifteen or sixteen weeks to mature. Choose varie- 

 ties that are known to succeed in your district. 



Autumn Sown Onions. — Carefully lift and plant 

 the Autumn Sown Onions. Allow 9 inches to 1 foot 

 each way. Make firm, but not too deep. 



Broad Beans. — Another sowing should he made 

 in a good open position of Exhibition Long Pods. 

 Plant out those raised in boxes, and protect from 

 keen winds with spruce boughs. 



IjEttuce. — Continue to sow every ten days, and 

 prick out as soon as ready. 



Herbs. — Endeavoiu', if possible, to grow all the 

 Herbs on a west border. They are then an inter- 

 esting feature of the Kitchen Garden, as well as 

 being so much handier for use. The finest border 

 I have seen is that arranged by Mr. Beckett at 

 Aldenham House. Here the groups are arranged 

 on the lines of the Herliaceous Border, with well- 

 ])laced stones running between the whole of the 

 varieties. Each variety was distinctly labelled, 

 and exceptionally well kept. Restrict the vigorous 

 forms, and encourage the weaker ones by a top- 

 dressing of spent nuishroom dung, leaf-soil, and 

 sand. Divide, replant Chives, &c., place Mint and 

 French Tarragon in heat for early use. 



The Hardy Fruit Garden. 



Strawberries. — Give the main and late beds a 

 good dressing of manure. Carefully fork it well 

 into the beds as advised for the early borders in 

 last month's calendar. Sow seeds of Alpine Straw- 

 berries. Raise in a cool house, in well-drained 

 boxes. Prick out the young seedlings as they 

 l)ecome fit. 



Fruit Trees on Walls.— Make quite sure that no 

 trees are allowed to suffer from want of water at 

 any time. Carefully examine every tree from time 

 to time, remembering that these trees do not 

 always get as much rain as those in the open. 

 When watering give a thorough soaking and not 

 dril)lets. Nothing is more deceiving than the latter 

 to the eye, but the trees very soon show its ill 

 effects. 



Newly Planted Trees on Walls, Fences, and 

 Stakes, &c. — The soil having now thoroughly 

 settled, these trees should be pruned and trained 

 Tie in the main branches after shortening to about 

 a third of its length, the object of the grower being 

 to obtain fruiting wood from the stem to the top of 

 the growths and a well-balanced tree. When they 

 do not start well into growth, syringe twice a day 

 with tepid water until the wood i)lumps up. Do 

 not allow any fruit the first season on young trees. 



Pe.\ches and Nect.\rines. — Train the shoots in 

 rows six inches apart. Secure the main l)ranches, 

 first with tar twine, then proceed to fill in with 

 good well-ripened fruiting wood. Tie each shoot 

 straight and at the correct distance. Twist the 

 raffia well and cut the ends close to the tie. Where 

 a large branch has to be sawn out, pare the 

 edges of the bark witli a sharp knife, so that it can 

 quickly heal. Where nails are used tie to the nail 

 with twisted white raffia and not shreds. When the 

 trees are finished spray with Medela as a preventa- 



tive of the Peach blister (Exoascus deformans). 

 As soon as the first fiowers begin to open have the 

 protecting materials, whether blinds or netting, put 

 into position ready for use, raising in the day and 

 lowering every night. 



Figs.— These are generally the last trees to be 

 taken in hand for pruning and training. Remove 

 all the protecting material used during the winter 

 When training give plenty of room for the large 

 foliage to develop. Should the trees V)e growing too 

 grossly restrict the roots to five feet from the wall, 

 placing slates or slaps to keep them in bounds. 

 The Fig requires a very hot situation and plenty 

 of moisture at the root; otherwise the fruit will 

 ripen dry and tasteless. A few years ago whilst I 

 was in charge of a noted garden in the South of 

 England I had what is supposed to be the oldest 

 Fig tree in the United Kingdom. This tree ripens 

 its fruit each season magnificently, there being no 

 fruits in either of the Fig houses to touch it. It 

 always had what is known to travellers as a tear 

 in its eye. 



Grafting.— Towards the end of the month the 

 sap will be freely fiowing, and stocks will be found 

 ready for grafting. Have everything in readiness 

 before starting, and all the tools with very keen 

 edges, so that all cuts may be made clean and 

 sweet. 



There are several methods, Init undoubtedly 

 that known as crown or rind-grafting is the most- 

 simple and effective. Cut a slit in the stock about 

 o inches long, get the scion about 6 inches long, 

 with three or four good wood buds. Cut about .i 

 inches slanting at the bottom end, cutting a small 

 notch to fit on the top of the stock. Lift the bark 

 with a piece of fiat bone, and place the scion in 

 positon. When dealing with a large stock o to 5 

 grafts may be inserted. Bind the bark with wide 

 strands of raffia, fairly tight, but not too tight to 

 cause injury to the bark. Cover this to make per- 

 fectly air-tight with either grafting wax or the 

 following preparation : — Yellow clay, quite free 

 from stones, worked up by the hands, fresh cow 

 dung, and chopped hay. Thoroughly mix and 

 make into a consistency of soft putty. As soon as 

 the clay is dug up put into water to keep it from 

 becoming dry and hard. Should dry weather or 

 drying winds ensue syringe twice a day, making 

 a fine spray to keep the clay moist, and it will also 

 help the grafts. Watch the wind does no damage 

 or loosen the grafts in any way. 



Flower Garden and Pleasure Grounds. 



Seed Sowing. — Half-hardy annuals will now re- 

 quire to be sown. Use well-drained boxes filled 

 with a sandy compost and placed in a warm house. 

 Shade from bright sunshine and jjay strict atten- 

 tion to watering. Never allow the soil to become 

 dry. When the seedlings are well up remove to 

 cooler quarters. Prick out into other boxes and 

 frames before they become drawn. 



Sweet Peas. — Endeavour to have a good supply 

 of Sweet Peas over as long a season as possible. 

 The autumn-sown plants are now ready for plant- 

 ing in their permanent quarters. Choose a day 

 after several fine ones for this operation, making 

 the soil friable and in good condition by several 

 light forkings over. If they are growing in 5-inch 

 pots allow them one foot from clump to cliunp in 

 the rows, adding short pea sticks with spruce 

 boughs placed alongside to protect from winds and 

 frost. Give a dusting of soot every week, and 

 watch for slugs. Hoe between the rows as often 

 as possible. In borders planted for effect. Sweet 

 Peas may be used at the back in groups of threes 



