8o 



IRISH GARDENING 



tliein 15 inches wide, allowing 3 feet between from 

 centre to centre; donhle line trenches wonkl rc(|iiiic 

 2k feet and 4 feet from centre to centre; ])lenty of 

 soil will be availal)le for earthing-up. It is a mis- 

 take to dig deej) pits for Celery, especially in wet 

 localities, "as although a moistnre-loving plant, it 

 resents sta";nation at the roots. A shallow trench, 

 abont 9 inches deep, will be .sufficient. Give a good 

 dressing of the best manure i)rocniabl('. digging it 

 into the bottom, which will give 4 inc'lies good soil 

 on top for planting. The earliest batch will be 

 ready for planting out towards the end of the 

 month. Allow abont 10 inches between the plants, 

 and give a good watering. Spray in the evenings 

 of bright days. 



Cucu.MBERS. — Another sowing should be made in 

 lieat to provide plants to take the place of those 

 exhausted, also for planting in frames as they 

 become vacant. Attend to thinning, pinching and 

 feeding of fruiting plants, top-dressing with good 

 loam when the roots come to the surface of the 

 mound. Keep growing in a warm, moist tem- 

 perature. 



French Beans. — Few vegetables are in such 

 demand as these during the summer, and frequent 

 sowings are required to keep up an unbroken 

 supply of tender pods. Encourage a quick growth 

 by hoeing and applying plenty of w^ater in dry 

 weather. Make anothei' sowing about the middle 

 of the month. Ne Plus Ultra and Canadian Wonder 

 are two good varieties to grow. 



Onions. — Those raised in boxes, if not planted 

 out as advised, should be seen to at once. In dry 

 weather spraying overhead in the evenings will 

 promote root action. 



Peas. — Main crops should be got in during the 

 month at intervals of ten days. Should a spell of dry 

 weather prevail well water with weak liquid manure 

 those coming into bearing and mulch on each side 

 of the drills. To hasten the filling of the pods pinch 

 out the points of the plants, thus gaining a week 

 or more. 



Potatoes. — Draw the earth np to the stems in 

 good time and hoe among the later plantings. It 

 is not too late yet to plant if not finished last 

 month. 



Runner Be.\ns. — Sow thege in trenches prepared 

 tlie same as for Celery, !)ut filling up the trench 

 level. Sow a double line 9 inches apart and a foot 

 lietween the seeds. If sown in pots in April as 

 advised, plant them out about the middle of the 

 month. The stakes could be ptit in befoi-e plant- 

 ing to secure the shoots against wind. 



Salads, Lettuce, Radish, Mustard, and Cress 

 require to be sown at short intervals during the 

 summer. Choose a cool border during the hot 

 months, supplying plenty of moisture. 



Tomatoes intended for outdoor planting should b(> 

 potted on into larger jjots and kept growing until 

 the first truss of fruits are set. It is not quite safe 

 to plant these out before the very end of the month 

 or early in June. Harden off gradually, finally 

 standing out-of-doors for a few days Ijefore plant- 

 ing. Keep all side growths rubbed off. Attend to 

 feeding and watering of plants indoors, to])- 

 dressing with good loam as required. 



Vegetable Marrows for main crops should l)e 

 sown at once. Plant singly in .3-inch pots placed in 

 heat. Harden off when growing freely, and put 

 out towards the end of the month. Meantime, the 

 stations could be prepaied for their reception. Dig 

 out holes 'A feet across and 18 inches dee]), filling hi 

 with rotten manure, working some of the soil 

 through it, and leave till planting time. Earlier 

 plants in frames will require plenty of liquid when 



the fruits ai'c set, pinching out the points of the 

 shoots; this will hasten swelling. 



The Fruit Garden. 



The first half of April was not too favourable for 

 the setting of fruit on the early flowering trees. 

 Although there was an absence of frost and hail- 

 stones. We had strong winds varying from N. E. to 

 S. E., with lieavy rain, and it is difficult yet to say 

 what damage has been caused (April 1.3th). Dis- 

 budding of Peach, Nectarine and Morello Cherries 

 will claim attention from time to time. Remove all 

 back and fore shoots retaining side growths suffi- 

 cient to take the i)lace of those fruiting this year. 

 In tlie case of Pears and Plums i)inch the young 

 growths at the fourth leaf from the base with a 

 view to develop fruit spurs. Shoots meant for ex- 

 tension may be left their full length till pruning 

 time. 



Look out for the first sign of aphis and spray at 

 once with a good insecticide — Qiuissia Extract or 

 Katakilla Powdei- dissolved in soft water. Ajiply 

 with some force to dislodge them. 



Raspberries generally throw up a larger number 

 of suckers than would be required to cover the 

 trellis. When these are a foot or so high, pull up all 

 but the strongest and well placed for tying in. This 

 will allow more light and air to reach the fruiting 

 canes, also tidding to the weight t)f the present 

 crop. 



Strawberry l)eds should be netted in good time; 

 in fact, when the first fruits are formed. Dust soot 

 or lime or a mixture of both round the plants to 

 check the ravages of snails. Water well in dry 

 weather. 



Look over trees that were grafted and remove the 

 tying material if too tight. It may be necessary 

 to protect the scions from birds alighting on them 

 and breaking them off. 



The Pleasure Grounds. 



Many of the spring flowering plants are past their 

 beauty stage, and preparations should be made for 

 refilling the beds or borders for a summer display. 

 Polyanthtis and Primroses should be split up, 

 saving the young side pieces and rei^lanting on a 

 shady border where they will make nice plants 

 diu'ing the summer. Tulips of the Darwin type 

 should be lifted with care and replanted to finish 

 their growth. When the leaves die down, lift the 

 bulbs and dry in the stui. Hyacinths and early 

 flowering Tulips are of little use the second year, 

 but may be planted in the wild garden where they 

 may give a few flowers next spring. Some of the 

 beds may require manure, especially where Wall- 

 flowers were grown, as these take a lot out of the 

 soil. Well-rotted stable manure or old hot-ljed 

 material is preferable to heavy farmyard manure. 

 It is a mistake to have soil too rich for most 

 flowering subjects — soft, sappy growth at the ex- 

 pense of flowers is the general result. About the 

 last week of the month will be early enough to start 

 })lanting out, beginning with the hardier subjects. 

 Heliotropes, Begonias, and such tender plants 

 should be left tillthe first week in June. 



The amount of bedding-out here was considerably 

 reduced during the war, and the principal plants 

 now used are Antirrhinums, one colour to each 

 bed, which usually ensures a fine display through- 

 out the summer and autumn. It is necessary to re- 

 move the flower spikes as soon as the flowers fade, 

 otherwise they soon exhaust themselves. This 

 applies to all annuals. 



