IRISH GARDENING 



SI 



dry sand for storing, and be most careful not to 

 break or bruise the skin, otherwise they will prove 

 very poor quality. 



Lettuce. — Where a good sowing of Lettuce was 

 made early in September they will require pricking 

 out into frames and warm borders. Thoroughly 

 prepare a rich bed for their reception, and allow 

 twelve inches each way. Keep the hoe busy whilst 

 the ground is dry, and all dead leaves removed. 

 Keep a sharp look out for slugs, &c. 



Endive and Salads. — Continue to l)lanch suffi- 

 cient Endive for the demand. Endeavour to get 

 the leaves quite white, whatever system of blanch- 

 ing is adopted. Mustard and Cress should be sown 

 in boxes and placed in a warm house every week 

 according to the demand. Where the Black Radish 

 is used do not allow them to grow too large or 

 strong. Italian Coon Salad, as used in Paris and 

 the South of France, is delightful, but it seems to 

 grow too large and Strang in the British Isles. 



Brussels Sprouts. — Where Sprouts are required 

 early it is advisable to go over the plants, picking 

 the close, firm and matured Sprouts first. Do not 

 pick them as they come, otherwise there will soon 

 be complaints from the diningroom. Remove all 

 the lower leaves to allow light and air to reach the 

 plants. If rough winds prevail, and tlie plants are 

 tall, it will be advisable to stake the tallest plants. 



Celeriac. — This vegetable will require thorough 

 soakings of manure water in dry weather. Remove 

 any small growths and leaves to allow the air to 

 get through the beds, and make large bull)S before 

 severe frosts arrive. 



Herbs. — Herbs growing in frames and pits nuist 

 have the lights removed on all favourable occa- 

 sions, otherwise damp will cause entire loss of the 

 plants. Keep free from weeds, and the surface soil 

 stirred as often as possible. 



Parsley. — Where the Parsley has made rank 

 growth it will be advisable to remove the coarse 

 outside leaves; this will assist the young leaves 

 to grow up strongly, and is much more likely to 

 resist sharp frosts. It will be advisable to have 

 covering material ready ni case of frosts, which 

 may be expected at any time i^ow. 



General Work. — Continue to trench all plots of 

 ground as they become vacant. Keep the hoe busy 

 on all favourable occasions. The smother fire will 

 be kept busy now burning all rubbish. I am not 

 a great believer in burying old Brassica sterns, 

 weeds, &c., at the bottom of the trenches. All 

 walks, &c., will require constant sweeping, and 

 endeavour to keep everything in good order. On 

 wet days, when the staff cannot work outside, get 

 all Beans, Peas, and other seeds cleaned and put 

 into new packets and carefully labelled and dated. 

 Do not trust to memory. Labels may be made and 

 painted, nets looked over and mended and stored 

 away, hanging them from the roof of the store 

 sheds. See that the thermometer is registering 

 correctly, and all in readiness for frost. 



The Hardy Fruit Garden. 



Fruit Picking and Storing. — During the early 

 days of the present month a good many varieties 

 of Apples and early Pears will require picking. 

 See that the fruit room is in perfect condition, and 

 place the latest varieties on the top shelves, keep- 

 ing the varieties that are to be used early close at 

 hand for frequent inspections. Handle the speci- 

 mens very carefully, and the smaller the crop the 

 greater must be the attention if a supply is to be 

 maintained through the season. In well-made fruit 



rooms a small portion at the entrance is generally 

 reserved for samples of all the varieties grown. By 

 this means the owners and visitors can see and 

 examine the fruit in comfort. I am asked more 

 questions in the course of twelve months on friut 

 than any other subject in the garden, which is a 

 step in the right direction, showing that more in- 

 terest is being taken in fruit growing generally. 

 Where the surplus is sold, send off the varieties as 

 they come into season, and grade and pack all 

 fruit most carefully. Keep the shutters closed in 

 the day time, although a current of air must 

 always pass through the rooms by means of small 

 iron ventilators let into the wall. Damp the floors 

 where cement is used for flooring. There is nothing 

 like the natural soil for the floors, as it maintains a 

 more natural moisture. I once had charge of a large 

 garden, where tremendous quantities of all fruits 

 were grown. A most elaborate fruit room was built 

 at the end of a range of Orchid houses, behind the 

 vineries. The pipes from the boilers passed under 

 the flagged floor on their way to the houses. Patent 

 ventilators, shelves, drawers, blinds, and goodness 

 knows what, were erected, and the result was a 

 waste of money, for we could not keep fruit tliere 

 of any description. Apples would shrivel almost 

 at once despite constant damping and heavily 

 sanding the flags to keep them moist. Near the 

 gardens was a large, round pigeon house, made of 

 chalk walls, and a deep pit. This I got fitted up 

 with shelves, and fruit would keep for months after 

 its season. I state this to show that to keep fruit 

 well does not require a lot of expense — just natural 

 conditions as near as possible. 



Pears. — Pears require very careful handling. 

 When storing, place a layer of wood wool of fine 

 texture under the fruit and place in the warmest 

 end of the fruit room. Comte de Lamy is a mag- 

 nificent flavoured Pear although small in size. 

 Beurre Superfin requires rather a warm soil and 

 position to bring it to perfection. W^illiams' Bon 

 Chretien requires picking before it is quite ripe. 

 Doyenne du Cornice is by far our best Pear, reach- 

 ing a good size and colouring well. We have some 

 beautiful specimens of this variety this season, the 

 trees having been kept well watered despite the 

 wet season. 



Preparations for Planting. — Advantage of the 

 weather should he taken, and, wherever possible, 

 all planting finished as soon as possible, while the 

 soil is yet warm. Having carefully prepared the 

 ground and everything in readiness for the trees 

 on their arrival, if the roots are dry soak in a tub 

 of tepid water. If the soil is poor, or trees have 

 been there before, take out the old soil for a good 

 distance and add the following compost : — Three 

 parts of good loam, one part old mortar rubble, 

 and one part wood aslies and burnt earth, 

 thoroughly mixed. Make the trees thoroughly 

 firm, and cut off upwards any large, coarse roots 

 or broken parts, and keep each layer of roots at 

 their proper levels, finishing off the same depth as 

 they were previously planted. Should the soil be 

 dry, give a thorough soaking of warm water. 

 Stake and tie the tree, and carefully label each one. 

 Unless planting on extensive lines, intending 

 planters would do well to consult the Royal Horti- 

 cultural Society's pamphlet on early and late 

 flowering varieties and self-pollinating trees. This 

 subject is too lengthy to explain in these short 

 notes, but I would willingly answer any would-be 

 planter's enquiries on this subject privately of what 

 I know of the Royal Horticultural Society's ex- 

 periments at Wisley during the past few years. 



