74 



IRISH GARDENING 



primings, ties, and rubbish. Add a little hcsli. 

 sweet compost, and gently fork over the whole 

 borders, leaving a good aj)peuranee. 



Pruning Applks, &c. — When the leaves have 

 fallen conm)enee to prune all Apple trees. Take 

 any cankered pieces clean out; if the saw is used, 

 pare the bark so that the wound may quickly heal. 

 Old, neglected orchard trees may be greatly im- 

 proved by taking out all the cross branches and 

 any dead wood. Spray the trees on a mild day with 

 caustic alkali to remove moss, &c. If possible, 

 clear away the gra.ss from the stems of the trees, 

 and keep the ground clear of all weeds l)y the use 

 of the hoe. Young trees will require pruning 

 moderately the first season after planting, the 

 object being to obtain a strong, well-balanced, 

 healthy, fruitful tree. I generally like to prune 

 fairly hard — viz., four to six eyes. Trees treated 

 in this way become full of fruiting spurs from base 

 to tip. I have often had to take charge of trees 

 where fourteen to twenty-four eyes had been left 

 in the early stages, resulting in dormant buds right 

 up to the top — miserable specimens. The only 

 chance then is to cut hard back several branches 

 each season. Pruning is greatly misunderstood, 

 and requires long experience to vmderstand it. A 

 good thing is, that far greater interest is being 

 taken in fruit growing, especially in Ireland. A 

 gentleman only remarked to me last week that he 

 noticed how many people were enquiring for the 

 best varieties, &c., to grow, and asking many ques- 

 tions on this subject. 



The Flower Garden and Pleasure Grounds. 



Early Flowering Chrysanthemums. — When the 

 display of flowers is over, cut the plants down to 

 within eight inches of the ground, lift and box the 

 plants carefully and winter in cold frames away 

 from severe frosts. See that all are correctly 

 labelled. 



Border Carnations. — All the Carnations that 

 have been potted must be given plenty of air at all 

 times. Never shut the lights right up, even when 

 covered up from frost. After a spell of mild, damp 

 weather it is advisable to just prick up the soil 

 slightly and dust over with powdered lime. 



Storing Begonias. — As soon as the Begonias are 

 dried off they may be stored closely in a frost-proof 

 shed. Watcii that no rain penetrates the roof, and 

 go over them occasionally during the resting 

 season. Gladioli and Dahlias may be treated 

 similarly. 



MoNTBRETiAS. — III cold, wct distiicts it is best to 

 lift the stock of Montbretias and keep them in 

 boxes in cold frames, or they may be lifted, 

 thinned, and re-planted on a good border with a 

 plentiful supply of decayed manure and sand. 

 They are excellent subjects for the yellow autumn 

 borders and also for large supplies of cut flower. 



Sweet Violets. — Violets which are flowering pro- 

 fusely, will greatly benefit by picking over, remov- 

 ing all dead and yellow leaves, and gently pricking 

 between the i)lants, and dusting a little soot over 

 the surface of the soil. This will also improve the 

 colour of the flowers. Never shut the lights close, 

 even in frosty weather, using a label between the 

 frames and lights. Where possible, it is a good 

 plan to pack plenty of long litter around the 

 frames. This will afford a gentle heat and assist 

 in keeping away frost. When flowers are required 

 every morning it is best to pick the day before 

 and stand in a warm shed. Have sufficient frames 



filled to meet all demands, as these flowers are 

 more esteemed l)y ladies, I think, than anything 

 else, and in himting districts one generally has to 

 provide for visitors. Marie Louise is still one of 

 the best varieties. 



Herbaceous Borders. — Herbaceous borders will 

 now require considerable attention. Wliere they 

 were well trem-hed last season a good dressing of 

 decayed leaf soil, free from sticks, stones, &c., may 

 be forked into the soil. Many subjects, although 

 only planted last spring, will require dividing and 

 re-planting. See that all labels are in position. 

 Hollow-stenmied plants are best left till spring 

 before cutting down, the reason of this being that 

 water fills the stems and causes the live shoots to 

 rot. Old-established borders that require trenching 

 should have all the plants lifted and laid in care- 

 fully as near as possible to save labour. When 

 trenching use plenty of good manure, leaf soil, and 

 burnt earth and wood ashes from the smother fire. 

 Throw up the l)ack of the border well. This will 

 greatly assist in making a bolder and better effect. 

 When each border is finished and the soil in good 

 condition, re-planting should be carried out as 

 quickly as possible. In dividing, discard the 

 centres of the old plants and use the yomig, 

 vigorous, outside shoots. Plant according to width, 

 three, five, or seven plants, and each group blend- 

 ing with its neighbour. A knowledge of colour 

 schemes is necessary, and also the tints of the 

 different subjects used. The display of flower must 

 extend over the whole season. To get a perfect 

 idea of a first-class herbaceous border it would fully 

 repay anyone to visit a garden in which they are 

 specialised. The owners of these borders are, as a 

 rule, only too pleased for anyone to see their dis- 

 plays. 



Lily of the Valley. — These beds should be 

 planted in different positions in the garden to pro- 

 long the display. The crowns must be taken up 

 before they become too thick and weak, resulting 

 in poor, weak flower spikes. The largest crowns 

 are best for forcing, the medium-size crowns for 

 forming new beds, and the smallest crowns in the 

 reserve garden. In making new beds use plenty of 

 good manure, and make the beds five feet wide 

 for convenience in picking, leaving an alley of 

 eighteen inches between the beds. Established 

 beds will greatly l)enefit from slight top-dressings 

 of finely-sifted manure. 



Hellebores. — Gently prick over the l)eds of 

 Christmas Roses, and give a little Clay's Fertiliser. 

 Before the flowers begin to push up, a little clean 

 straw laid over the ground will keep the flowers 

 clean, and a few lights placed over the plants will 

 protect from rain and elongate the stems. 



Roses. — Any of the more delicate of the Tea Roses 

 that require protection from severe frosts should 

 have a layer of bracken placed over the ground 

 and close to the stems. J^aurel boughs placed 

 through the plants will sometimes afford sufficient 

 Ijrotection to the delicate stems. See that all 

 standards are secin-ely fastened, and not rocking 

 at the base. This is fatal to newly-planted trees 

 of any description. Where Roses are pegged down 

 over banks keep a sharp look out for any of the 

 pegs coming away from the soil. 



Phlox Borders. — Shorten the growths of Phlox 

 to within two feet of the ground, taking out the 

 stakes, and where the plants are too thick after 

 close planting, every alternate plant can with 

 advantage be removed. Lightly fork between the 

 plants, working in some well-decayed manure. 



Pentstemon Beds. — Cut away the old flower 



