1889.] l4.u [Ilaupt. 



prevailing direction of the storm winds, apparerdly ignored by Prof. Ilavpt, 

 is an important element in the problem." 



This wind-wave theory presupposes that the breakers and waves gen- 

 erated by prevailing winds and by great storms rolling along the beaches 

 and transporting material in the direction of these movements, are the 

 preponderating forces. 



It is a plausible theory, and the effects of great storms do not admit of 

 doubt, yet its general application in accounting for the peculiar forms of 

 spits and bars will be found to fail signally in numerous instances, as will 

 hereafter appear. 



In replying to these points, I would respectfully submit that, as the 

 effects of storms are immediate, and the changes readily observable, too 

 much stress has been laid upon them, as compared with the work done by 

 the ceaseless activity of the flood, the result of which for any one tide 

 may be small, but it is cumulative. Thus, on the one hand, we have a 

 great force operating for a short interval of time along a variable path ; and 

 on the other, a lesser force operating almost incessantly over a constant 

 path. Assume that there are five or six great storms from the same quar- 

 ter during a year, with no counter-storms to neutralize their effects. We 

 have then an aggregate effect of some unknown quantity multiplied by 5 

 or 6 to be compared with some lesser unknown quantity multiplied by 

 730. In ten years the net result in the latter case would be tenfold greater ; 

 in a century it would be a hundredfold, and the effect would go on increas- 

 ing as long as time endures. But one great storm, it must be remem- 

 bered, may cut away material which the next may restore, and the result- 

 ant must always be the algebraic sum of the movements. The wind-wave 

 theory is totally inadequate to explain the existence of the peculiar hooks 

 and spits which have been built out directly in the face of the prevailing 

 winds. For instance, witness the phenomena at one of the most striking 

 and familiar formations on the coast, that of Sandy Hook. I will quote 

 the observed facts from the Report of Profs. Bache and Mitchell, printed in 

 1856, U. S. C. S. Reports. Prof. Bache remarks : " It is known * * * 

 that Sandy Hook is gradually increasing, growing to the northward into 

 the main ship channel. A spot north of the Hook, where there was forty 

 feet of water when Capt. Gedney made his survey, in less than ten years 

 was nearly bare at low water. The importance of determining the cause 

 of this increase, as leading to the means of controlling it, cannot be over- 

 estimated." * * * "Various causes have been assigned for its growth, 

 by the action of the waves and the winds." Speaking from the results 

 of Prof. Mitchell's purveys, he says: "It turns out that this growth of 

 the Hook is not an accidental phenomena, but goes on regularly and ac- 

 cording to determinable laws. The amount of increase depends upon 

 variable causes ; but the general fact is that it increases year by year, and 

 the cause of this is a remarkable northwardly current * * * along 

 both shores of the Hook." * * * "For more than seven hours out 



