OUR VISIT TO THE NICOBARS 



The skull on the left 

 bears a helmet, under 

 the band of which is 

 stuck a row of spoons. 

 Headgear of this type 

 is shown in use on 

 page 1 06. 



sisted of a tiered hat of plaited coir covered with strips of coloured cloth 

 and surmounted by a "scaffolding" hung with bunting, bunches of keys, 

 bracelets, copper coins, spoons, and plastic trinkets. One skull bore a 

 topee embellished with tea-spoons stuck behind the ribbon; another had 

 a black topper of old-fashioned type which was evidently considered fine 

 enough to need no further decoration. The skulls themselves were of widely 

 varying ages, some being dark and badly decayed by long burial, others 

 new and "fresh". There were toothless old skulls, skulls with fine, well- 

 preserved teeth, and small skulls of children. 



It was difficult to keep a straight face at the sight of all these grotesque 

 features, but the gravity of the natives assured us that this was a serious 

 occasion. The young women who were holding the skulls seemed un- 

 aware of our presence. Besides this inner circle, there was an outer circle 

 of women sitting round the wall. At intervals the women would lay aside 

 their home-made cigarettes and emit a chorus of wails. The chief iden- 

 tified some of the skulls for us — his father, brother, sister, etc. As there 

 were between 25 and 30 in all, some of them must have been of great age; 

 some which lay on a rusty old iron bed in the background, and which, 

 though decorated, were not held, doubdess belonged to long-dead relatives 

 whose identity had been wholly or partly forgotten. 



Through Dr. Ramanand we gradually gained a fair understanding 

 of the background to these ceremonies. They were held at irregular inter- 

 vals depending on the host's wealth. The immediate occasion in the pre- 

 sent case was the first anniversary of his father's death. Beginning a long 

 time before the celebration is due to take place, a supply of food is laid 



