INTRODUCTION. 1 7 



Mussoorie, where we had to hire thirty coolies with 

 a man called a tindal in command to carry stores, 

 tents, etc. These stores were put into baskets 

 called " kilters," and strapped to the men's shoulders, 

 the Government weight allowed being 66-lbs. ; the 

 addition of a cook and a man servant completed 

 our party. 



We took a fair quantity of European stores with 

 us, as the only things obtainable en route were fowls, 

 eggs, flour, and an occasional sheep ; in the way of 

 drinkables — nothing but whiskey. An average 

 day's march would be about 1 2 miles, but we had no 

 hard and fast rule about this, pitching our tent for 

 the niofht wherever circumstances were most 

 favourable. 



To describe these magnificent snow-capped moun- 

 tain ranges, or the ever changing scenery we passed 

 through, would require the genius of a Blackmore 

 to do it justice, suffice it to say that, below the per- 

 petual snow line of 17,000 feet, the mountains were 

 a mass of luxuriant vegetation in which one would 

 notice the Scotch fir, larch, etc., whilst rhododen- 

 drons, wild fruits, and flowers were in abundance 

 creating a perfume all through the air. A glorious 

 country truly ! When we got up to about 11,000 

 feet we met a man of the Forest Department, and 

 here we made a little diversion, leaving the ordinary 

 track for a couple of days in order to get a little 

 shooting. We divided into two parties, the lieu- 

 tenant going with him, and the civilian with me. I 

 managed on this trip to shoot a couple of wild sheep 



