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CONIROSTRES. 



Our mode of prefixing the letter H to the word is erro- 

 neous. In Italy these birds are caught in great numbers 

 and fattened for the table, in the same way as the 

 Ortolan.* 



* The Ortolan Bunting {Eniberiza hortulanus), so esteemed as 

 a dainty, appears to be confined to the southern parts of Europe, 

 where, however, it is to a certain extent migratory. When they 

 first arrive in France they are far from fat ; but human ingenuity 

 soon makes them in good condition. They are taken in great num- 

 bers with nets, and fattened by shutting them in a dark chamber, 

 in which is placed a lantern surrounded plentifully with oats and 

 millet. The darkness seems to have the effect of confining the 

 whole attention of the bird to its favourite food, thus placed within 

 view ; and it is said they will thus die of suffocation from their own 

 fat, if left entirely to themselves. Another mode is by confining 

 them in cages which admit a little light only to the box containing 

 their food. When thus fattened, the Ortolan is said to be one of 

 the most exquisite morsels in the epicure's carte du jour. 



