10 



GARDENING. 



Sept /s, 



William Falconer, Editor. 



PJBI.ISHED THE 1ST AND 15TH OF EACH MONTH 

 BT 



THE GARDENING COMPANY, 



Monon Building, CHICAGO. 



Subscription Prlce.R.OOa Year-24 Numbers. Adver- 

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 Copyright 18Ht>, by The Gardening Co. 



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 Kdltorof Gardening, bchenley Park, Pittsburg. Pa. 



Gardening Ib gotten up for Its readers and In their 

 Interest, and It behooves you, one and all. to make It 

 Interesting. If It does not exactly suit your case, 

 please write and tell us what you want. It Is our 

 desire to help you. 



ASK any Questions you please about plants, 

 Uowers, fruits, vegetables or other practical gardening 

 matters. We will take pleasure In answering them . 



Send us Notes of your experience in gardening in 

 any line; tell us of your successes that others may be 

 enlightened and encouraged, and of your failures, 

 perhaps we can help you. 



SEND US PHOTOGRAPHS OK SKETCHES Of you 



dowers, gardens, greenhouses, frulta, vegetables, or 

 horticultural appliances that we may have them en- 

 graved for GARDENING. 



CONTENTS. 



TREES AND SHRUBS. 



Small leaved or "Chinese" cypress (illus ) . 

 Select trees and shrubs for southern states . 

 Wants a choice small tree 

 Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora (illus ) 



Questions about trees and shrubs 



Notes on yuccas 



Yucca Treculeana 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



Plants in bloom September 8 



My garden 



Golden Glow coneflower (illus ) 



New geraniums 



The newer sweet peas . . 



Hardy phloxes 



Crab grass 



Arum Dracunculus ... 



Giant hyssop— salvia 



Gladiolus Childsii • ■ • 



The leather flower . . ■ ■ - 



Clematis paniculata 



Worms vs. fertilizer . . .... 



Balsam and larkspur seed 



Plants for name . ... 



AO.UATICS. 



How to make a water lily pond (illus.) 



THE GREENHOUSE. 



Winter flowering plants for the conservatory . 

 Questions about plants 



ROSES. 



Hardy roses for Cincinnati 



Roses in Canada 



Aruudo, tritoma, roses 



CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 



Mulching chrysanthemums 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



Watering greenhouse grape vines 



Apples and pears • 



Berry bushes . . . 12, 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. 



Corn, early golden yellow 



New Malta squash 



The Newer Sweet Peas.— If you want 

 the candid truth about sweet peas be sure 

 you read the article by Mr. Hutchins in 

 this issue of Gardening, page 6. Mr. 

 Hutchins is the greatest authority on 

 sweet peas in this country; he makes this 

 flower a hobby and a study, and he not 

 only grows every variety in cultivation 

 but also has an "inside view" into the 

 new and coming varieties that is denied 

 to most of us. Study the article in 

 question, and when you come to make 

 up your list of sweet peas for next 

 year be sure you refer to this article and 

 take a hint from it. It was written by 

 Mr. Hutchins in the heyday of the sweet 

 pea season in his garden, and on the 

 ground among his flowers. It is the 

 voice of actual, practical, experience. 



Wake up, Philadelphia — Hear what 

 one of your citizens writes to us: "The 

 collection of roses at Fairmont Park is 

 not very extensive, it is true, but the va- 

 rieties grown have been selected with 

 great care and usually attract the atten- 

 tion and elicit the admiration of visitors. 

 The severe pruning they receive tvery 

 year induces vigorous growth and pro- 

 fuse flowering. The rose borders are 

 located on the south side of Horticultural 

 Hall, and there may be found a strong 

 plant of the old rose. Peine d'Angleterre, 

 which in June is literally laden with 

 bright pink flowers, they being more 

 abundant than on any rose bush we have 

 ever seen. The newer roses, such as Crim- 

 son Rambler, the yellow and white Ram- 

 blers, the grand Carmine Pillar, and Sin- 

 gle Crimson bedder, have not yet found 

 their wav to the park. In cannas our 

 park is poor, very poor, the only kinds I 

 find there are Mme. Crozy and a misera- 

 ble yellow mongrel not worth the trouble 

 of planting out." A. B. 



Watering PLANTs.-Mr. Mitchell's note 

 about the lavish watering of grape vine 

 borders reminds us of a point in horti- 

 culture as regards watering that is some- 

 times overlooked. Ready, clean and per- 

 fect drainage is the keynote of success in 

 horticulture. As an illustration let us 

 take a pot plant. With full, free and per- 

 fect drainage it will be hard to overwater 

 it; with imperfect drainage we can stag- 

 nate the water in the soil and render the 

 plant unhealthy in a little while. With 

 perfect drainage we can water a vigorous 

 plant most every day till the water runs 

 out at the bottom without any fear of 

 souring the soil; more than thatoverflush 

 waterings are often of much benefit in 

 washing out stagnating moisture and 

 keeping i he soil fresh and sweet. Take 

 an orchid pot filled with moss. Once 

 thoroughly wetted that moss will be apt 

 to keep wet for several days, and if we 

 keep on giving a little water every day 

 just to keep it equally moist all the time 

 the moss will soon begin to decay and 

 sour and the roots to rot. But if in 

 watering we dip that pot in a tank till 

 the water runs right through it in quan- 

 tity or pour water into it till it runs out 

 freelv the escape water will wash out the 

 stagnation and impurities from the moss, 

 and the potting material will be pure and 

 sweet all the time and the roots alive and 

 healthy. 



Old Butter Tubs for Plants —We 

 have just bought a thousand empty 

 butter tubs from the grocery stores to 

 pot a lot of plants in; they are of two 

 sizes, namely, 30 lbs. and 60 lbs. tubs, 

 and they cost us 4> ■• cents each. Thev 

 have wooden hoops, but we drive a few 

 wire nails into the hoops, clinching them 

 on the inside, and in this way keep the 

 hoops securely fastened; also we bought 

 some light strap or baling iron and hooped 

 a lot of the tubs with it. For draining 

 we bore a lot of %-mch holes in the 

 bottom of each tub; before using we 

 strew a little chopped straw in the 

 bottom, then in with our plant and soil. 

 Before using, though, the tubs are cleaned 

 from any grease, scorched slightly over a 

 fire, painted inside with a daub of cement 

 and outside with metallic paint. If the 

 tubs are too deep we saw a piece off the 

 top, usually down close to the first hoop. 

 We use these tubs for hydrangeas, hardy 

 shrubs used for forcing, big plants of 

 Canterbury bells, chrysanthemums, and 

 some other things; and they are nice 

 things to winter over some of the tender 

 aquatics in. In fact they are as useful as 

 pots without being breakable, and when 



used for hardy shrubs that we wish to 

 leave out of doors to get the frost in 

 winter there is no fear of them being burst 

 bv frost, as is sure to be the case with 

 pots. At Glen Cove we used to get iron- 

 hooped tubs, but the grocers here seem to 

 have the wooden-bound ones only. 



The Greenhouse. 



WINTER FLOWERING PLANTS FOR THE CON- 

 SERVATORY. 



The sweet pea is oneof the finest plants 

 for winter forcing. From a space about 

 two feet square we got last winter more 

 blooms than from ten times the space in 

 the garden in summer, and they continued 

 a longtime blooming. Get seed of the tall 

 named varieties and so iv it in pots, put- 

 ting three seeds in each; when the plants 

 are well up plant them in nine inch deep 

 boxes in rich soil, and about eight inches 

 apart, and train along the rafttrs. When 

 the boxes are filled with roots give liquid 

 manure. They blossom in about two 

 months or ten weeks from time of sow- 

 ing. 



Antirrhinums rooted now from selected 

 sorts make nice blooming plants for win- 

 ter and spring. Majus alba is the favor- 

 ite sort for cutting. 



Geraniums rooted in summer should be 

 potted on for winter and spring bloom- 

 ing; keep the flowers pinched off. For the 

 amateur it might be as well to procure a 

 dozen good sorts from some reliable florist, 

 in 3 inch pots. 



Lobelia Erinus makes a pretty pot 

 plant for the conservatory in winter in a 

 sunny position. 



I iwarf Nasturtiums should be rooted 

 from tops now; they will come in very 

 useful for cut flowers in winter. 



Mignonette should now be sown 

 either in the benches where itis to remain, 

 or in pots to be planted in the benches 

 later on. To secure good spikes of bloom 

 the lateral shoots should be pinched off. 



Chrysanthemum tricolor and sweet 

 alyssum should also be sown 



Flowering begonias that have been 

 planted out over summer should now be 

 lifted and potted. 



Bougainvillea glabra and its variety 

 Sanderiana should be placed in the cool 

 greenhouse by the end of September and 

 kept rather dry, to be brought into heat 

 later on. 



Coreopsis tinctoria seedlings should 

 be lifted and potted — they are generally 

 self-sown — and they will bloom during 

 the winter. I find that Coreopsis lanceo- 

 lata will not. 



Heliotrope cuttings should be made 

 now to plant in fenches later on; also 

 cuttings of Impatiens Sultani, which will 

 brighten up the house during winter. 



Jasminum grandiflorum should be 

 lifted, potted and brought into a warm 

 house as required. 



Olea fragrans is a very useful, fra- 

 grant decorative plant for the conserva- 

 tory and of easy culture. 



The white swainsona should be 

 planted in the benches if not already 

 done so. 



Justicia velutina and Ruellia niacra- 

 tha are easily grown flowering plants for 

 winter decoration. 



Cosmos should be brought in doors 

 soon; if planted out it should be carefully 

 lifted and kept shaded for « few days. 



Azaleas and hydrangeas should be 

 put into cool winter quarters by the end 

 of the month. Kon't let the frost catch 



