GARDENING. 



151 



THE DOVE ORCHID. SEE PAGE 152]. (Pe> liter ia elala.) 



rudbeckias of various varieties, Gaillardia 

 grandiflora. Campanula carpathica, blue 

 and white, C. glomerata, C. Van Houtlei, 

 C. perskifolia in variety, Linum arbor- 

 eum, L perenne, Saponaria ocymoides, 

 Heliopsis la?vis. Coreopsis lanceola'ta, 

 Scabiosa caucasica. Lobelia apolla, for 

 shady situations, Heucbera sanguinea, 

 Viola eornuta for half shade, Lychnis 

 fulgens, L. Sieboldii, Centaurea montana 

 alba and rosea, Pyrethrum roseum H. pi., 

 one half of which will prove single 

 but perhaps equally desirable, Eryngium 

 in variety, Statice tartarica, S latifolia, 

 Stokesia cyanse, Pratia angulata (Lobe 

 lia), Dictamnus fraxinella. 



The above list would give a fairly good 

 flower show durirg the spring and sum- 

 mer months and a few fall blooming 

 plants are included. J. B. K. 



VARIOUS QUESTIONS FROM MINNESOTA. 

 ANNUALS AND PERENNIALS. 



What is the difference between annuals 

 and hardy annuals, perennials and hardy 

 perennials, biennials and hardy biennials? 



Annuals are plants whose natural dura- 

 tion of life is limited to one year. The 

 hardy ones are those that may be planted 

 outdoors where they are to bloom, while 

 the tender ones require the aid of the 

 greenhouse or hotbed to start and nurse 

 them into form for planting out. Annu- 

 als always bloom the same year they are 

 sown. 



Perennials are plants whose natural 



period of life extends over an indefinite 

 number of years. Some may be raised 

 from seed sown outdoors, while others 

 are more easily started under glass. 

 Hardy ones are those that will live 

 through the rigors of winter. The term 

 "hardy" has only a local signification. 

 What might be hardy in Louisiana might 

 not be so in Minnesota. Some perennials 

 bloom the first year, while others not 

 until the second. Tender perennials are 

 those not able to stand the winter. Some 

 that bloom the first year are often treated 

 as annuals. 



Biennials are those that bloom the sec- 

 ond year and then generally die: Where 

 they will stand over the first winter they 

 are termed hardy. Conditions occasion- 

 ally cause biennials to bloom the first 

 year or again the third season. 



HARDY ROSES, ETC. 



Last fall I made a bed to be planted 

 with hardy roses next spring. It is against 

 the southeast side of the house, 24 feet 

 long by 2Vb feet wide; ground slopes 

 genth' away. It is raised nearly a foot, 

 and outer edge sodded up. It was spaded 

 deep, and the bed composed of about one 

 part of old cow manure, one part clay 

 and about three partsblackmellowloam. 

 Is it made right or is it too narrow or 

 raised too high? I want this bed to be a 

 crackerjack of roses or other hardj- good 

 things. Position conspicuous. Kindly 

 give about the right number and names 

 of most desirable kinds for such a bed. 



Don't like the position for a rose bed. 

 Roses like an open situation, yet some- 

 what sheltered from the winds. The bed 

 should not be raised, as it naturally is in 

 a very dry situation owing to theground 

 sloping from it, and especially if there is a 

 cellar wall to drain it still more. Lower 

 it and grow a double row of cannas, 

 planting the rows about eighteen inches 

 apart and two feet in the row. 



The following perennials might do there 

 and ought to hardy: Sedum spectabile, 

 Monarda didyma, Euphorbia corollata, 

 Heliopsis Pitcheriana. Achillea The Pearl, 

 Asclepias tuberosa, delphiniums, Dicentrn 

 spectabilis, Eryngium amsethystinum, 

 Oriental poppies, etc. As a rule these 

 should be planted one foot apart. If 

 cannas are used water freely. 



Make your rose bed somewhere else or 

 use part of your border bed. Use same 

 mixture as bed near house, but change 

 "black mellow loam" to two parts and 

 add one part sod from a pasture or road- 

 side. Have bed at least two feet deep, 

 and see that the drainage is good. If the 

 bed is three feet wide you can use two 

 rows, the outer ones within eight inches 

 of the edge. Try Gen. Jacqueminot, Mrs. 

 John Laing, Magna Charta, Mrs. Chas. 

 Wood, Prince Albert, Marie Baumann. 

 Marshall P. Wilder, Paul Neyron, Anna 

 de Diesbach, Earl of Dufferin, Caroline 

 Marniesse, Madame Plantier and Clo- 

 thilde Soupert. Or you can grow the tea, 

 China and Bourbons, and winter in a cold 

 frame orcellar. You will have to protect 

 the hybrid perpetuals in winter. 



HARDY PLANTS. 



I have made a border intended to be a 

 division line between my lot and neigh- 

 boring vacant lot. It is 50 feet from the 

 house, 48 feet long by 3 feet wide, and 

 about the middle of it stands a dead oak 

 tree which I intend to cut off about 15 

 feet high and cover with vines. Give 

 good list of best hardy shrubs and flow- 

 ers for a permanent bed. The soil is a 

 sandy loam. Should it be enriched? 



In making the border bed have the face 

 of it nearest the house in easy undulating 

 lines never narrower than three feet, and 

 enrich it by the addition of well rotted 

 manure and trench it two feet deep. At 

 the base of the oak put one or two good 

 plants of Clematis paniculata, water well 

 in summer. In the fall cut back to within 

 one foot of the ground, bend them over, 

 place a small box over them or place two 

 bricks one each side of vine and lay a 

 short board on top; then place quite a 

 quantity of ashes over the box or board, 

 building the pile cone shape, wide enough 

 at the base to well protect the roots. 

 For shrubs you can use any of the Tarta- 

 rian bush honeysuckles. The American 

 snowball, Spirxa Yon Houttei, Hydran- 

 gea paniculata grandiSora, mockoranges, 

 lilacs, Prunus triloba, Pyrus Parkmani, 

 Berberis vulgaris, Berberis Thunbergii, 

 amelanchier, Caragana frutescens, Rosa 

 rugosa, and perhaps the hybrid variety 

 Mme. Georges Bruant, snowberry and 

 Rosa rubrifolia. You can grow some of 

 the perennials abovementioned in among 

 these shrubs for a few vears. 



PROTECTING OAK TREES. 



It is well known that black oak trees 

 will not stand civilization or much tramp- 

 ing around them. Last year about a 

 dozen old trees about the house died 

 The old settlers thought it was the resuli 

 of the previous year's severe drouth. As 

 a future protection I have circled the 



