i8 97 . 



GARDENING. 



323 



THE PERENNIAL YELLOW FOXGLOVE. 



any situation, except one where the 

 water stands in winter. They seem to do 

 equally as well planted in among Hydran- 

 gea paniculata grandiilora, where abund- 

 ant water is supplied during the summer, 

 as in the cutting grounds where only the 

 ordinary moisture is given. In the 

 hydrangea bed they bloom, and are cut 

 back to within a foot of the ground by 

 the time the growth of the shrubs want 

 the space their upper foliage and flowers 

 occupy. 



In the wild garden at the edge of the 

 ravine they hold their own pretty well in 

 their struggle with native plants. They 

 are good cut flowers, most of the shades 

 lighting up well at night, especially under 

 the electric light. 



The illustration represents a bunch of 

 L. elegans var. erectum standing in a 

 bowl of wet sand. The bunch had been 

 in the house just a week when photo- 

 graphed, and only one stalk replenished. 

 It opens up each bud in water and foliage 

 and flowers keep fresh a longtime. They 

 bloom in June and July. W. C. Egan. 



THE PERENNIAL YELLOW FOXGLOVE. 



One of the conspicuous members of the 

 old fashioned English gardens is the com- 

 mon foxglove, Digitalis purpurea of west- 

 ern Europe, a handsome biennial varying 

 in color from purple to white. A variety 

 known as gloxinaeflora is probably the 

 most showy. 



Of late another form has appeared in 

 the catalogues under the title monstrosa, 

 which reverses the order of the type in 

 opening a terminal flower first, instead of 

 the lowest, and opening out saucer- 

 shaped instead of funnel-shaped. A speci- 

 men in flower has already been figured in 

 Gardening. As stated, these are biennials 

 and are generally raised in July, carried 

 over the winter under protection, when 

 they bloom the following summer, and as 

 a rule die that fall. 



The species illustrated is however, a 

 hardy perennial known as Digitalis 

 ambigua, occasionally catalogued as D. 

 grandiflora and D. ochroleuca. It is a 



native of southern Europe and perfectly 

 hardy at Egandale. It grows about 

 three feet high with long spikes of yellow- 

 ish tubular-shaped flowers. While not as 

 showy as its shorter-lived relative, its 

 hardy nature and perennial character 

 make it worthy of a place in any large 

 collection. It blooms in Jul v and August. 

 W. C. Egan. 



FflEONIES-TULIPS— LlLlES-yilCCflS. 



What can I do with paeonies to make 

 them bloom? What exposure suits them 

 best? I admire them very much and have 

 a great many. Some produce a few 

 blossoms, others have not bloomed for 

 years. 



Tulips, both single and double, have 

 been a total failure in my garden for two 

 seasons. Formerly they did well. 



Lilium candidum and L. canadense, 

 growing near each other, failed this year; 

 came up well, but turned brown and died 

 down without budding. Lilium longMo- 

 rum in same bed have plenty of buds and 

 a few flowers have opened, but leaves are 

 getting spots on them and seem to be 

 dying. Can it be late frosts injured them? 

 Or have they the lily disease? What shall 

 I do with them? 



I dug up one candidum bulb after the 

 foliage died and found the bulb large and 

 firm. Lilium roseum and L. album look 

 fine and L. auratum looks fairly well. 

 These are some distance from the first 

 named. 



Can large yuccas be safely moved? If 

 so what is the best time? Mine are too 

 much shaded. 



I have taken your paper two years and 

 enjoy it immensely. It has been of service 

 by telling me what to buy, of whom to 

 buy and how to care for plants summer 

 and winter. W. K. 



The preonies must have been sorely neg- 

 lected for a long time. The ground 

 around the roots must indeed be very 

 poor when these roots can not find nour- 

 ishment enough in it to produce a top 



growth strong enough to mature flow- 

 ers. It is not stated whether they are 

 planted in a bed closely together or singly 

 in clumps, whether they are shaded by 

 overhanging trees or otherwise, nor is 

 am r thing said about soil or exposure and 

 I find it difficult under the circumstances 

 to answerthe question. Perhaps it would 

 be best to give a few hints on their gen- 

 eral requirements. 



Almost any soil suits them, but it should 

 be deeply worked before planting and 

 well enriched; annual heavy top dressings 

 are of great benefit to vigorous growth 

 and forming of large full flowers; too dry 

 a situation tends to weaken the plants in 

 all their parts; a shaded position is not 

 desirable, though where they have the 

 benefit of sun and light for about six or 

 eight hours a day, good results may be 

 expected. No additional care is necessary 

 and they may remain undisturbed for 

 many years; we have a few large clumps 

 here which were planted more than 20 

 3'ears ago and they flower abundantly 

 every season. 



I have no idea of how large or how old 

 W. K.'s plants are. May be dividing and 

 replanting in a different location and soil 

 would be advisable il they are closely 

 crowded in a bed; or a few of them may 

 be left there undisturbed and the ground 

 around them well enriched with thor- 

 oughly decayed manure If the clumps 

 are growing separately in a border or in 

 the lawn, I should now dig a trench 

 around them without delay, remove the 

 soil entirely, fill in with rich compost and 

 finish with a generous watering. Should 

 it be impracticable to do this on account 

 of neighboring shrubs or other plants, a 

 weekly supply of liquid manure will 

 surely be of great benefit. 



Dividing or replanting should not be 

 delayed until late fall; September or the 

 first week in October is a good time. Dig 

 up caretully, do not break any more roots 

 than you can help, wash the adhering 

 soil out in a tub or barrel of water, then 

 cut up into several pieces and immediately 

 replant in the new position which has 



