i8 97 . 



GARDENING. 



DETAILED PLAN FOR A FLOWER GARDEN 



1+6. 

 1+7. 

 14-8. 

 149. 

 150. 

 151. 

 152. 

 153. 

 154. 

 155. 

 156. 

 157. 

 158. 

 159. 

 160. 

 161. 

 162. 

 163. 

 164. 

 165. 

 166. 

 167. 

 tree. 

 168. 

 169. 

 170. 

 171. 

 ana 

 172 

 bier 

 A. A 

 elm, 



Heliopsis Pitcheriana. 

 Single paeonies. 

 Heuchera sanguinea. 

 Tritoma granditiora. 

 Spira'a aruncus. 

 Aquilegias. assorted single. 

 Puhnonaria maculata. 

 Henwrocallis Ha va. 

 Tall phlox. 



Heliopsis Pitcheriana. 

 Helianthus rigida. 

 Double paeonies. 

 Helianthus lxtiflora. 

 " orgyalis. 



Funkia Sieboldi. 

 Onoclea sensihilis. 

 Struthiopteris germanica. 

 Coreopsis lanceolata. 

 Phlox subulata alba. 

 Rhododendron Ererestianum. 

 Japanese maples. 

 Rosa setigera to climb old cherry 



Lonicera Morrowi. 



Japan weeping cherry. 



Chinese rhubarb. 



Iron wire arch with A'osa Wichurai- 

 trained on it. 



Iron wire arch with Crimson Ram- 

 rose trained on it. 



. A. A. A. A. Large old trees, cherry, 

 etc. J. Wilkinson Elliott. 



NOTES ON DAHLIAS. 



For late summer and fall decoration of 

 the garden the dahlia is indispensable. 

 This has been a fine season for them, 

 plenty of rain and cool nights, and this is 

 what dahlias love. They have made a 

 strong growth and are flowering in fine 

 shape. We have not noticed one ii) per- 

 fect flower among them, and this is not 

 often the case where a large assortment 

 is grown. 



The culture of the dahlia is simple if 

 two important points are observed, 

 namely plenty of rotted manure, well in- 

 corporated with the soil, and plenty of 



water at all times. They should be 

 planted in a part of the garden where 

 they will have some protection from high 

 winds, or unless they are propetly staked 

 they are liable to be broken down, in 

 fact they seem to do better in partial 

 shade than in the open. They should be 

 planted three feet apart each way and 

 given a good mulching of rotted manure 

 to help retain moisture. When planting 

 we always leave a hole around each plant 

 and fill the same with the mulch; in this 

 way each plant can have a can of water 

 and receive the full benefit of it as the hole 

 keeps the water from running off. We 

 have found this a good plan, as in our 

 dry summers water is often scarce and 

 hosing has to be done in a stingy way. 

 Dahlias are divided into five different 

 classes, namely show and fancy, single, 

 cactus, pompon, and Tom Thumb orbed- 

 ding. The show and fancy dahlias are 

 the ones mostly seen in our gardens, but 

 since the cactus forms were introduced 

 people seem to like them better, and 

 deservedly so, for they are farmore grace- 

 ful and better adapted for cutting pur- 

 poses; the big double flowers of the show 

 and fancy sorts are so stiff that there is 

 little call for them. The single dahlias if 

 of good sorts are all that could be desired 

 for cut flowerwork. They generally have 

 good long stems and the flowers are very 

 graceful. They flower very freely and if 

 kept well watered they make a fine show 

 in the garden from August until cut by 

 frost. The cactus dahlias are the most 

 beautiful of them all. Their big open 

 flowers on long stems are very graceful 

 and they are one of the choicest flowers 

 we have for cutting. They do not grow so 

 compact as the old double sorts, but they 

 are all the better for this as they show oft" 

 their flowers to better advantage. The 

 pompon dahlias are not much seen in gar- 

 dens, but they are pretty little plants 

 when well grown. They are of compact 

 habit, growing about three feet high, the 

 flowers small and very double and carried 



well above the foliage. The Tom Thumb 

 varieties grow only about fifteen inches 

 high and form a compact little bush. The 

 flowers are single, in many colors. They 

 are not often seen but they are well worth 

 a place in every garden. 



Dahlias are increased by division of the 

 roots or from cuttings and seeds. The 

 most common way, and the one mostly 

 used, is root division. Thisisdone about 

 the end of April. Theold roots are broken 

 up into as many pieces as there are eyes, 

 or as near to it as can be done, but it 

 often happens that there are two or three 

 eyes together, and in this case when they 

 begin to grow the weakest ones can be 

 rubbed off. We like to give them a little 

 start in a cold frame before planting 

 them out. We set them in the frame 

 quite close together and cover them up 

 with soil and put on the sash till they 

 start to grow, when it is removed to get 

 a hard stocky growth, but the sash is 

 always put on at night till all danger of 

 frost is over. Where a cold frame is not 

 to be had the dry roots can be planted 

 out where they are to flower, but they 

 will be later in flowering. We have often 

 seen amateurs planting out the whole dry 

 root just as it was lifted from the ground 

 the fall before, but this is a bad plan as 

 so many shoots start from the root that 

 they form a roagh looking bush and the 

 flowers are always small and inferior and 

 never give so much satisfaction as where 

 only one shoot is grown. 



Propagation by cuttings is a very sat- 

 isfactory way of increasing the stock and 

 often gives better results than root divi- 

 sion. It is easily done by starting the 

 old roots in February and taking the 

 cuttings off as they grow. They root 

 very quickly and if kept growing they 

 will make nice blooming plants by the 

 middle of August. Another good way is 

 to put in the cuttings by the 15th of Sep- 

 tember and grow them on in 3-inch pots 

 till about the new year, then dry them off 

 to give the roots a rest, repotting them 



