22 



GARDENING. 



Oct. i 



bed by planting three generous clumps of 

 Helianthus orgyalis, around these eight 

 or ten roots of Aster Robt. Parker, fol- 

 lowed by a circle of eighteen Hibiscus 

 Moscheutos. The next row is made up of 

 twenty-five Lychnis chalcedonica or the 

 same number of Aquilegia canadensis, 

 thirty-six Wahlenhergia grandiflora will 

 come after that, and the last or outer row 

 of the circle is composed of forty-five c 

 fifty plants of Alyssum saxatile compac- 

 turn. One of the four long narrow r beds 

 could be planted with blue and white Cam- 

 panula carpathica edged with Aubretia 

 deltoidea, forty-five of the former and 

 about the same number of the latter will 

 berequired; intermixed between the cam- 

 panulas a few Gladiolus communis could 

 be planted. 



A second bed maj' be edged with Arme- 

 ria maritima, the body of the bed to be 

 filled with Saponaria caucasica ff. pi. 

 and a few Iris acorus var. interspersed 

 among them. For another take Lychnis 

 viscaria pi. with here and there a few 

 montbretias, surrounded by Arabis alhi- 

 da; and the last bed could be filled with 

 CEnothera glauca mixed with Lilium spe- 

 ciosum and an edging of Iberis correafolia. 

 Each of these beds will require about the 

 same number of plants as the first one. 

 It would be an advantage to have a hedge 

 of some sort surrounding the plat, or a 

 light wire fence would answer the same 

 purpose; over the wires we could train 

 vines, such as Clematis paniculata and 

 C. virginiana, Lathyrus latifolius, Apios 

 tuberosa, callystegias or similar hardy 

 climbers. In the lour corners of the plat 

 several varieties of eulalias and a clump 

 of Arundo donax var. can find a place; 

 three eulalias for each corner will be 

 enough if the plants are strong; they 

 should be planted 2V2 to 3 feet apart. 



Next to one of these, on the right side, 

 we may introduce in a double row I, 

 8 Bocconia cordata planted two feet 

 apart and then patch II, 8 Boltonia 

 asteroides planted the same distance 

 apart in a double row; then further still 

 to the right III, the same number of 

 Helianthus multifforus ff. pi. would reach 

 to the middle of the hedge or fence on one 

 side. Then we begin on the left of the 

 eulalias and go the same distance IV, 

 with 8 Cephalaria tartarica; V, 8 Core- 

 opsis tripteris, and VI, 8 Hibiscus milita- 

 ris and we have formed a background for 

 just one quarter of the border. Now 

 take for patch VII, 12 Rudheckia lacini- 

 ata Golden Glow and fill out the corner 

 where eulalias, bocconias and cephalarias 

 were planted; they will reach over to the 

 boltonias on the one and to the coreopsis 

 on the other side; VIII, in front of the 

 boltonias, 6 Dicentra spectabilis are to 

 go in a double row again and IX. 10 

 Delphinium formosum with the Helian- 

 thus multitiorus back of them Patch X 

 is in front of Coreopsis tripteris, 8 orien- 

 tal poppies are planted there, and the 

 next plat, XI, is composed of 8 clumps 

 of Monarda didyma. XII will occupy 

 the corner formed b}' dicentra and pop- 

 pies; it is filled with 10 Aconitum autum- 

 nale; 10 Gaillardia grandiffora superba 

 in XIII which is in front of the delphini- 

 ums; XIV, with 10 Spiraea fflipendula 

 reaches half way across the aconitum 

 patch; the other half is XV, planted with 

 10 Polygonum cuspidatum, leaving just 

 room enough for XVI, where 10 Hemero- 

 callis flava may find a home, and then one 

 quarter of the whole border is planted 

 excepting a narrow strip along the path 

 which may be edged with white and pink 

 Phlox subulata. 



For the remaining three corners I will 

 mention the plants now, to be planted in 



the same order as the first, beginning with 

 the patch I, at the right side of the eula- 

 lias, tall native asters; II, Thalictrum 

 aquilegifolium; III, Spirasa lobata; IV, He- 

 lianthus lastifforus; V, Delphinium hybri- 

 dum; VI, Rudbeckia hirta; VII, holly- 

 hocks; VIII, white Phlox decussata; IX, 

 Coreopsis lanceolata; X, Ly thrum sali- 

 caria; XI, Centaurea montana alba; 



XII, Anemone japonica alba; XIII, 

 Polemonium coeruleum; XIV, Centran- 

 thus ruber; XV, Veronica spicata alba; 

 XVI, Silene Scbaftas, and for edging use 

 Saponaria ocymoides. The second quar- 

 ter is finished, now for the the third: I, 

 Boltonia latisquama; II, Helenium au- 

 tumnale; III. Pxonia sinensis and Lilium 

 excelsum; IV, Inula macrocephala; V, 

 tall bright colored Phlox decussata; 

 VI, Eryngium amethystinum; VII, 

 Aquilegia chrysantha; VIII, Spiraea 

 ulmaria pi.; IX, Phlox suffruticosa; X, 

 Pentstemon pubescens; XI, Digitalis 

 gloxinia: flora; XII, Rudbeckia maxima; 



XIII, Dicentra spectabilis alba; XIV, Eri- 

 geron speciosus; XV, Pxoma tenuifolia, 

 single or double; XVI, Pyrethrum rose- 

 urn and an edging of Dianthus cassius. 



The 1 st quarter remains and can be 

 planted in the following manner: I, 

 Cassia marylandica; II, Spirwa palmata 

 elegans; III, Iris Kxmpierii; IV, Pyre- 

 thrum uliginosum; V, Inula glandulosa; 

 VI, Aconitum californicum; VII, Clema- 

 tis recta; VIII, Helenium Hoopesii; IX, 

 Paeonia officinalis and Lilium auratum; 

 X, Campanula persicifolia coerulea; XI, 

 Chrysocoma linosyris; XII, Cimicituga 

 racemosa; XIII, Aster amellus bessara- 

 bicus; XIV, Papaver nudicaule, yellow; 

 XV, Campanula Van Houttei; XVI, 

 Iris germanica, and an edging of Plum- 

 bago larpenta?. Box edging may be used 

 for all or part of the beds if so desired 

 but dwarf flowering plants will usually 

 give better satisfaction. 



Thus planted we would have flowers in 

 this garden from early spring until late 

 in the fall; early and late flowering spe- 

 cies are so placed that no large patches 

 bare of flowers could be noticed at any 

 time during the season; early and late 

 bloomers are evenly distributed on the 

 ground, and if the decaying flowers and 

 foliage are removed once in awhile, the 

 place would always be neat, cheerful and 

 attractive. T- B. K. 



CLEMATIS FANJCULATA WITH SPOTTED 

 LEAVES. 



What is the cause of and cure for the 

 brown spot appearing on the leaves of a 

 Clematis paniculata? See enclosed leaf. 

 The vine is a young one planted this 

 spring and has made but a couple of 

 leaves of growth. The spot is on the 

 lower leaves. S. H. C. 



Mass. 



The clematis leaf, placed under a lens, 

 indicates a fungous attack. It is either 

 that or the work of some insect, and it 

 does not appear to be the latter. We 

 advise you to try spraying with Bordeaux 

 mixture for all forms of fungi. Even 

 should the injury be the work of insects, 

 the spraying will be more beneficial than 

 injurious. 



PERENNIAL PHLOXES FROM SEED. 



Does the raising of perennial phlox 

 from seed present any special difficulties? 

 Two plantings have failed completely 

 though some seventy other varieties of 

 flower seeds treated in the same way 

 were successlul. The phlox fails to ger- 

 minate. S. H. C. 



Mass. 



Perennial phlox seed sown in the fall, 

 late in the season, will come up freely in 

 the spring, as witness the hundreds of seed- 

 lings which come up in old beds of plants 

 allowed to perfect their seeds. If kept till 

 spring, place the seed in a cool place, 

 mixed with almost dr\ r soil, sowing it the 

 first chance that occurs. 



The Cold = Frame. 



THE COLD FRAMES. 



These should now be put in working 

 order, and all plants should be planted by 

 the 15th of October; in fact we like to 

 have them all planted by the end of Sep- 

 tember. We are now busy at this work 

 as we have a long string of frames to fill. 

 We will tell you now what we are put- 

 ting in them. 



The forget-me-nots we grow largely as 

 we like to have a good spring show and 

 they are nice to associate with the spring 

 flowering bulbs. If a few had been sown 

 early and are now good sized plants they 

 will bloom nicely in the frames, or they 

 can be lifted in fanuary or February and 

 potted. They make fine plants for the 

 window or cool greenhouse in the early 

 spring months. 



Canterbury bells sown in July and 

 transplanted once are now nice stocky 

 plants, and were planted to-day, the 16th. 

 We plant them about eight inches apart 

 as they grow quite fast and are liable to 

 rot if planted too close together. A few 

 degrees of frost won't hurt them. 



Polyanthuses and hardy primroses in 

 variety take up quite a space. These are 

 from June sowings and fine stocky plants 

 they are now. They are quite hardy 

 with us, but this year's seedlings might 

 not flower next spring if they were 

 planted out now, and by keeping them 

 growing all winter most every one will 

 flower. In this way we have them the 

 second year in perfection. We will win- 

 ter over a few thousand of them in this 

 way, as we wish to naturalize the most 

 of them in the grass and shady spots 

 around the garden. Masses of them were 

 last spring the showiest things we had, 

 and they last a long time in bloom. 



Foxgloves we grow from seed each 

 year and winter in a frame as they do not 

 winter very well with us if left outside. 

 When they are past flowering they are 

 rooted out, and zinnias or similar plants 

 take their place; this keeps the garden 

 bright and no flowerless beds or borders 

 are seen. 



Pansies we do not grow much in the 

 frames except a few for early flowers and 

 these are left in the frames till they are 

 past. We have better success with them 

 when we plant them out where they are 

 to flower in spring. They are quite hardy 

 and we have just finished planting out 

 many hundreds of them. 



Carnations and pinks fiom cuttings are 

 now planted out in the frames. These 

 two are quite hardy but they bloom bet- 

 ter for having the protection of a frame, 

 and then they are safe from the rabbits, 

 which are a great pest on this place. 



The English daisies are fine for spring 

 work, and we have just planted six hun- 

 dred in the frames for this purpose. 

 Though a common plant it is one of the 

 showiest we have when in flower, and 

 they last so long. They can be planted 

 out just as soon as the soil is dry enough 

 to work. The past spring they were in 

 fine flower April 12 and lasted all through 

 June, and I think gave more pleasure 

 than some of the choice bulbs we had in 

 flower at the same time. 



