i8g8. 



GARDENING. 



Many of them don't care and would just 

 as soon sell you a white rose tor a red one 

 as not. Or the bushes may have been in 

 a wagon or tied in bunches for a week, 

 and when you get them they are almost 

 dead. Deal with a party that you know 

 or a firm that has always sent you reli- 

 able goods. 



Just as soon as they arrive and every- 

 thing is in shape you can begin to plant 

 them. Some ot the varieties that you 

 have bought are probably on their own 

 roots and some of them may be budded 

 roses. Roses on their own roots are those 

 that have been rooted from cuttings or 

 layers from a rose bush of the same vari- 

 ety as desired* The latter are those 

 where a bud or eye has been taken from 

 one variety and budded on a sort of wild 

 rose, commonly called Manetti stock. 



233 



Varieties that are hard and slow to 

 propagate are generally budded because 

 it is a quicker way to multiply them, and 

 for this reason the nurserymen resort to 

 it. If ycu should ask me which ones are 

 the best I would have to tell you that, so 

 far as I know, I have never seen any dif- 

 ference. You can get equally as good 

 roses on their own roots as from budded 

 ones. In planting budded roses, plant 

 them deep enough so that the place where 

 the bud has been inserted is covered in 

 the soil. This is advisable for two rea- 

 sons: First, it will help to prevent the 

 shoots lrom the stock plant from coming 

 up; second, it furnishes bettersupport and 

 the wind is not as liable to break the rose 

 bush off. In case of roses on their own 

 roots you can see how deep they have 

 been planted. Just plant them as deep or 

 a little deeper than before. Plant them 

 about three feet apart each way and firm 

 the soil around them well. 



After you have all your bushes planted 

 you can begin to trim those you have just 

 planted as well as those you planted last 

 year and all the others. Cutout all weak 

 growth; select three or four good shoots 

 and cut them back to two or three eyes 

 on last year's growth. You cannot spare 

 your pruning knife if you want good, 

 healthy foliage and nice, large roses; they 

 will also be more free from insects and 

 disease during the summer. Pruning is 

 one of the essential requisites in the suc- 

 cess of hardy roses. Some varieties will 

 not stand severe trimming, such varieties 

 as Mme. Plantier, Persian Yellow, Moss 

 and all the climbing roses. Remove all 

 dead wood and some of the straggling 

 shoots to keep them in a neat, compact 

 way. 



Now spade in a liberal quantity of com- 

 post and your bed is ready. As the nights 

 get warmer and the days longer you will 

 find them swelling their buds, and in a few 

 weeks a nice young growth will cover 

 them. Keep a close watch and see that 

 they are free from aphis, or green lice, as 

 they are called. For they are very fond 

 of the soft growth on roses. Should they 

 make their appearance, get some tobacco 

 stems; you can get them from any cigar 

 factory. Take about one-half pailful and 

 fill the pail will water; let stand over 

 night, take the liquid and dilute with 

 water to the desired strength. Spray all 

 the affected bushes and you will kill all 

 the lice. Go over them once in a while as 

 they need it; as soon as the buds appear 

 and they begin to show their color you 

 will not be able to fight them, as tobacco 

 will spoil the flowers. 



The weather will now be warm and dry. 

 You must not let your rose bushes suffer 

 for water. Syringe them mornings fre- 

 quently. Be sure you get on the under 

 side of the foliage. This will prevent the 

 red spider and white thrip, and will help 



the roses wonderfully. A light mulch 

 around and underneath the bushes to a 

 depth of about two inches will help to re- 

 tain a good deal of moisture in the ground. 

 Use well-rotted compost or the rakings 

 off your lawn after it is mowed. Be on 

 the lookout for any shoots that may come 

 out of the ground from the budded" roses. 

 Should they be from the Manetti stock, 

 remove carefully; dig down and cut them 

 off close to the parent stock. 



As the buds develop, disbud carefully. 

 Remove all buds but one on each shoot. 

 This will greatly increase the size of your 

 roses. Bushes treated in this manner 

 should give you first-class flowers, and 

 you will not have any trouble in surpris- 

 ing your neighbor. As you take him over 

 your patch of roses, here you will see the 

 lovely rose standing proud and smiling at 

 you with all its grace and beauty. There, 

 behold, winks Louis Van Houtte.asmuch 

 as to say, "Come, look at me!" Along- 

 side is Mabel Morrison, so white and so 

 pure, with petals as if carved out of wax. 

 Around are numerous other varieties in 

 all their glory, beauty and fragrance. 

 Who would not enjoy such a scene? 



The following season you must not 

 neglect your rose bushes. Keep them free 

 from weeds and insects. Then a good 

 deal depends on the care you give them for 

 the next season. The rose bug will curl up 

 some of the leaves. Go over them and 

 pick off all such or get a smart boy to do 

 it for you. Syringe frequently to keep 

 down red spider and white thrip. I do not 

 wish to convey the idea that you must 

 keep your rose bed soaked, as that would 

 be very injurious to them. Just spray the 

 foliage well in the morning; but should 

 the soil get dry, why, just give it a good 

 soaking; then withhold until dry again. 



In the fall of the year, as the nights get 

 cold and the days very warm, the tops 

 will keep the foliage wet into mid-day, and 

 mildew and black spot will usually affect 

 your bushes. You can usually kill mildew 

 with flowers of sulphur by keeping the 

 foliage well powdered. But black spot 

 is a bad disease. It is caused by too much 

 moisture and dark, cloudy days. It will 

 first show itself in very small spots, but 

 in a few days it will have almost all the 

 foliage off the bushes. Bordeaux mixture 

 will not cure it, but it will help to pre- 

 vent it. By taking all these precautions 

 and keeping your bushes healthy you will 

 get a number of good roses late in the 

 summer, and, on some varieties, until 

 frost nips them and the last rose of sum- 

 mer will have gone. In a few weeks they 

 will drop their foliage and once more will 

 take the rest they need for next summer's 

 rose show. As soon as the wood is well 

 ripened you can cover them. Usually 

 about the middle of November dig around 

 them and bank them up with soil ten or 

 twelve inches; afterwards cover with 

 compost or litter and they are ready for 

 winter. In the spring take the soil away 

 from them, trim as before, and again 

 they will respond to nature'scall: "Awake 

 and help to beautify!" 



State Floral Society, San Fran- 

 cisco, Cal — This society has decided to 

 hold its annual spring show at Golden- 

 gate Hall on the afternoons and evenings 

 of the 12th, 13th and 14-th of May. Cash 

 premiums will be offered and an effort 

 made to interest amateur flower growers. 

 President E. J. Wickson called attention 

 to the fact that during the summer many 

 of the prominent sweet pea growers 

 would be in California, and it was decided 

 to make the June show entirely of that 

 flower, and notify Dr. Wm. Hutchins and 

 others to talk on its care and propagation. 



ROBERT SHORE 



WORKERS IN HORTICULTURE, VII. 



The subject of our portrait on this occa- 

 sion is a professional gardener, Mr Robert 

 Shore, of the botanical department of 

 Cornell University, Ithaca, N. Y., to whose 

 abilities some allusion is made elsewhere 

 in the present issue. Mr. Shore is a na- 

 tive of Ireland, and began his successful 

 gardening career in that country at the 

 age of 16 years. Later he was employed 

 in the Liverpool Botanic Garden under 

 Mr. Tyerman, had charge of the plant 

 and fruit departments at Hewell Hall, 

 Worcestershire, and held a similar posi- 

 tion under Mr. W. Speed, Penrhyn Castle, 

 Wales. Coming to this country in 1870, 

 he held various good appointments 

 around New York and along the Hudson, 

 when he was requested to take charge of 

 some important work on the Fisk-Mc- 

 Graw estate, Ithaca, N. Y. Leavingthere 

 on the death of his employer, he was ten- 

 dered his present position, which he has 

 occupied during the last fifteen years. 



Fruits and Vegetables. 



VEGETABLES FOR THE flOHB GARDEN. 



Every man who owns or rents a place 

 large enough to contain a vegetable gar- 

 den has probably already selected his 

 varieties and procured seed for the com- 

 ing season. Experience teaches which 

 varieties are best adapted to given locali- 

 ties, and decides the question of personal 

 preferment. There are many, however, 

 who are about to plant theirfirst garden, 

 and who must select varieties without the 

 guide of their own experience. For the 

 benefit of such, a few notes may not come 

 amiss. 



Radish seed may be sown as early as 

 the ground can be prepared, in drills and 

 covered about one-fourth of an inch. 

 Later the plants should be thinned to two 

 inches apart. Scarlet Globeis theearliest, 

 though French Breakfast is a good vari- 

 ety. Long Scarlet Short Top will do for 

 a late variety, though many prefer to 

 make several sowings of the early varie- 

 ties. Late radishes are more liable to be 

 attacked by maggots than early ones, 



