36 



IRISH GARDENING. 



Brussels Sprouts. 



By WILLIAM JOHNSTON, Instructor in Horticulture, Co. Longford 



THERE is none ofthe cabbage (i:^/Y/^i-zW/) tribe 

 to my mind of so much importance as 

 that of Brussels Sprouts. When well 

 grown the quantity of eatable material produced 

 exceeds that of borecole or kale, while there is 

 less actual waste from Brussels Sprouts than is 

 to be had from any other variety of cabbage 

 tribe. It is a great mistake that this vegetable 

 is not met with more frequently in the gardens 

 of the cottagers and small farmers. Perhaps 

 some of these people have the mistaken idea 

 that it is out of their reach to grow this crop, 



A Stem of Brussels Sprouts. 



but its culture is just as easy and as simple as 

 the crop mostly seen growing in the gardens of 

 the above-named classes — viz., that of borecole 

 or kale. The following few hints as to the mana^-e- 

 ment of this useful winter vegetable might be of 

 profit to some of the cottagers who take an 

 interest in gardening that I give them, not al- 

 together for their intrinsic value, but that those 

 for whom this article is penned might avail 

 themselves of adding another useful vegetable to 

 the number already grown, and so have better 

 vegetables for their home supply than heretofore. 

 Soil most Suitable. — The soil intended for seed 

 and nursery beds of Brussels Sprouts should be lig-ht and 

 fairly rich, while the ground intended for their cultiva- 

 tion ought, if possible, to be of rich loam, but they will 



succeed in any ordinary garden soil having an open 

 situation. Some people recommend deeply-trenched 

 and liberally-manured soil as the most suitable, but this 

 tends to the production of large, loose sprouts instead 

 of fairly-sized, close, firm ones, which are produced on 

 soil of average fertility. 



Manuring. — Brussels Sprouts, like all green-leaf 

 plants, are rather exhaustive of nitrogenous elementsj in 

 the soil, therefore it is essential to give a dressing of 

 somewhat fresh manure to counterbalance the loss of 

 Ihis food taken from the soil. 



Sowing of Seed. — It is better to make three small 

 sowings — viz.,(i) early in March, (2) beginning and (3) 

 end of April — than to sow all the seed at once. Plants 

 resulting from these sowings will keep up a good suc- 

 cession for supply during the winter and spring. The 

 seed is best sown in shallow drills from six to twelve 

 inches apart, and covered with about half an inch of fine 

 soil. After the seed is thus covered the ground should 

 be raked and beaten with the back of a spade so as 

 to compress the soil and seed. Having completed the 

 foregoing operations it is better to net the beds, by sup- 

 porting a piece of garden netting on a few forked sticks 

 so as to protect the seed from the ravages of birds. The 

 yield of the crop largely depends on the strain of seed 

 used. 



Treatment of Seedling Plants.- — When plants are 

 large enough to handle, and before becoming too crowded 

 in seed beds, they should be pricked out into nursery 

 beds in rows about six inches apart and the plants about 

 same distance asunder in rows, letting the plants down 

 to the bottom leaves in the ground and making the soil 

 firiu about the roots. This operation should be per- 

 formed in showery weather, but if not, the plants should 

 be well watered so as to settle the soil about the roots. 

 It is a great mistake to allow the young plants to remain 

 too long in the seed beds, as they are liable to become 

 long-legged or "drawn." 



Transplanting. — Place out the young plants into their 

 permanent quarters before they become too crowded 

 in nursery beds, placing them two feet asunder every 

 way, letting the plants down to the bottom leaves in the 

 holes made for them with the dibbler. It is better to 

 give them a good watering after planting, so as to 

 obviate a check on their growth, if weather is not suit- 

 able. Before planting, especially in dry weather, the 

 roots should be dipped in a "puddle," made of clay, 

 sufficiently thick to adhere to the roots, and into which 

 a small quantity of fresh soot has been stirred. The 

 application of fresh soot will save the roots from the 

 attacks of grubs, which are rather troublesome in some 

 gardens. One thing necessary in the planting of Brussels 

 Sprouts is that the soil about the roots must be firm. 



After Cultivation. — Draw up a little earth to the 

 plants when they are from eight to nine inches high ; 

 keep them always free from weeds, and save the soil- 

 moisture by repeated hoeings. The side leaves should 

 not be removed while green, as it is at the base of these 

 leaves on the stems of the plants that the sprouts are 

 formed, and when these enlarge the said leaves become 

 yellow, and finally drop off after having performed their 

 proper functions. The tops or heads should not be cut 

 off, as is often done, until the close of the season and 

 after the side sprouts are nearly exhausted. Up to that 

 time they serve to protect the stems from the effects of 

 frost, besides helping to maintain growth. 



Varieties most Suitable to Grow. — The following 

 four varieties are about the best for the cottager to grow, 

 as they yield a large return of sprouts, and besides are 

 hardy and require very little care : — 



Mackty's Selected Giant. — One of the best, being large, 

 very firm, and of delicious flavour. 



President Carnot. — A large variety. 



Aigburth — One of the earliest, very hardy. 



Scrymger s Giant. — Fine variety, sprouts compact, 

 flavour good, grows to a large size. 



