O GENERAL ASPECT OF THE FT,()RA. 



The former division is characterized tltroiigh its cedar glades; 

 the latter is the region of the oak-barrens. 



IV. West Tennessee, situated between two powerful rivers,, 

 with much level or only gently undulating surface, owes its ))ecu- 

 liarities to the abundance of swampy lands and predoniinantlv 

 argillaceons soils, in connection with a more humid atmosphere. 



I. 8UBALPIXE PvEGION. 



The dividing line between the States of North Carolina and 

 Tennessee passes over and along the crest of the highest ridges 

 and peaks, known as the Unaka, Great Smoky, Bald and Frog 

 mountains. Their average elevation is about 5,000 feet, but 

 about twenty-two summits are 6,000 feet or more. The highest 

 stretch lies between French Broad and Little Tennessee rivers,, 

 with lifty-five high points, eighteen of which are over 6,000 feet. 

 Clingman's Dome, by a few feet the highest, rises to the verv 

 respectable altitude of 6,660 feet above tidewater, according to 

 the measurements of Prof. Arnold Guiot, of Princeton, X. J. 

 (Vide Am. Jour. Science, Sept. 1857 and Nov. I860). Geologic- 

 ally they consist of Huronian shists and gneisses, and in some 

 spots of Laurentian granites. 



Not one of these high crests presents a bleak crag, bare of 

 vegetation, nor is there a timlber-line. Some are evenly timbered 

 throughout, others support only a scattered and stunted arboreal 

 growth, and some bear only a low shrubby or herbaceous vegeta- 

 tion. The absence of timber on the so-called "Balds" is per- 

 haps due to waves of excessive cold ; such, at least, seem the 

 naked trunks looming up here and there, to suggest. There are 

 generally groups of red oak, striped or mountain maple, mountain 

 ash and chestnut, with open spaces between. They have a stunted 

 and gnarled appearance, their sprawling limbs often but few feet 

 from the ground. Chestnuts of the summit flower from three to 

 four weeks later than those in the neighboring valleys. 



Upon these lofty retreats dwells a limited number of species 

 peculiar to those regions. Many more are denizens of the com- 

 mon flora of more northern latitudes, but are not found in the 

 intervening lowlands. The abundance of evergreen Rhododen- 

 drons, exuberant flowering ericaceous and liliaceous ])lants pro- 

 duce a floral scenery of unsurpassing beauty. From the altitude 

 of the region, as well as from the physiognomy of the vegetation^ 

 we may call it "subalpine." 



To here belongs Abies Fraseri Pursh. and Rhododendron 

 Cataicbiense Michx. Betula Intea jNIichx. grows to moderate size,. 



