ARCHANGEL 139 



indispensable to one who does not know the language, 

 and wishes as little delay as possible. Mr. Pilley 

 charged five roubles a day, and took every trouble for us, 

 losing no time. Thanks to him, we were only delayed a 

 couple of days in St. Petersbourg — which is pretty nearly 

 a record, Meves having been delayed as much as ten days. 



We called upon M. Gromme, to whom Mr. Dresser 

 had given us letters of introduction. We found him 

 very polite, and arranged to call on him * on 'Change ' 

 to-morrow before four o'clock. 



We then went to the University Museum, but were 

 rather disappointed with it on the whole. The skeleton 

 of the Mammoth, a perfect one and very fine, was the 

 principal attraction. We saw^ some good Kussian and 

 Siberian mammals and birds— and one Great Auk. 



Next we visited the Zoological Gardens, which were 

 very poor ; a fine Aurochs — or European Bison — and some 

 Elk and Reindeer were the principal objects of interest. 



June 7. 



Friday, the 7th of June, was also very hot. First, with 

 our commissionaire, we went to the custom-house, where 

 we were detained all the forenoon, and had to pay 

 eighteen roubles (£2 10s.) for duty on my gun and case, 

 etc. — charged by weight 37 lbs. (1 pood). Then we got a 

 few small articles we wanted, and called ' on 'Change ' for 

 M. Gromme. 



We heard from him of a German naturalist who goes 

 to Archangel to-morrow, and whom we hope to accom- 

 pany. We now settled to get off by the steamer 

 to-morrow at one o'clock. We had still our passports to 

 show to the police (who certify we are quiet and unoffend- 

 ing), and then our ' Paderoshna,' or travelling papers 

 for securing post-horses, which we are promised for 

 to-morrow at eleven o'clock. 



