178 TRAVELS OF A NATURALIST 



while a naked, or nearly naked, baby sprawled about in 

 dangerous proximity to the flames. Hung above by a 

 long rope or chain from the top of the wigwam was a 

 large iron pot, and the smell which issued from the 

 doorway was simply unbearable. There were no men 

 at home, so the women were shy of showing themselves. 

 One came out to the doorway, however, and we had 

 a good view of her. She had the true Mongolian stamp 

 of features, the sallow complexion, flat nose, long narrow 

 eyes, high cheekbones ; was of small stature, and was 

 dressed or wrapped up in furs of different colours, and 

 wore the regular Samoyede boots. Withal she was not 

 ugly, but had rather a pleasant expression. 



A perfect swarm of mongrel dogs rushed out to meet 

 us, and for a time we were puzzled to know what these 

 could be kept for, but all doubts vanished when after- 

 wards we found skulls and bones both of dogs, cats, 

 horses, lying about in close proximity, and when we 

 peeped into the large casks in which they store their 

 perfectly rotten meat. The stench that emanated from 

 these casks, and indeed pervaded the whole neighbour- 

 hood, was loathsome in the extreme. Carl assured us 

 that they prefer this food to any other, and live close 

 to the slaughter-house in order to obtain it and the 

 offal. 



But these poor creatures are not to be taken as types 

 of the Samoyedes in position socially, as their contact 

 with civilisation has certainly not improved them. No ; 

 these people belong to another race, who hold the Samo- 

 yedes almost as slaves, and who came from the East and 

 conquered them — so we were told. 



They are not to be compared with the wealthy 

 Samoyedes of Mezen and Petchora, who each own 

 15,000 or 20,000 * Reindeer, who have clean and com- 



''■■ See, however, the Petchora journals ; 10,000 is a big property. 



