44 PROCEEDINGS OF THE NATIONAL MUSEUM. vol. xsxv. 



the border. The left obliques are not merely laced among the others, 

 but curl in passing so as to have the soft inside of the split against 

 the other elements. 



Lehmann " has brought together the hand textiles of the world 

 under the term Geflechtsarten, as distinguished from Gewerbe, which 

 would include the machine textiles, or loomwork. There are 3 plates 

 and 195 illustrations, and some of them cover two or more technics. 

 His analysis of the Geflechtsarten is as follows: 



(1) Elements run in two directions, both active. Includes open 

 and close checker, upright and oblique twills, and ornamental work 

 under the same definition. (Plate I, figs. 2-6.) 



(2) Active parts unite a definite number of passive parts. In- 

 cludes wicker-, twined-, wrapped-, and coiledwork of every kind. 

 (Figs. 1, 7-10, 12-25, 27-31, 34-46.) This is by far the largest 'of 

 Doctor Lehmann's groups. 



(3) Passive parts running parallel are united with flexible parts 

 running in two directions. Two oblique flexible sets are united by 

 rigid horizontal elements. (Figs. 47-52.) 



(4) Active textile elements in three or four directions, making A 

 hexagonal weave. B octagonal or chair-bottom weave. (Figs. 53-58.) 



(5) Technic in a single moving part or element, though it may con- 

 sist of two or more stems side by side. There are three ground forms, 

 the continuous coil (A) ; the sinuous movement (B) ; and the figure- 

 of-8 (C). (Figs. 59-63.) 



(6) Technic of two sets of passive elements lying parallel, the sets 

 generally latticed at right angles and fastened together by means of 

 elements interlaced in like particular direction. (Figs. 65-83.) It is 

 latticework, fastened together by interlacing or wrapping. The bird- 

 cage technic of the American ware. (Figs. 65-84.) 



(7) Technic from two or more active elements bending in two or 

 more directions. A, made by varying other technics (figs. 15, 32, 33, 

 23, 24) ; B (fig. 84), interlocking bights at right angles; C (fig. 90), 

 interlocking sinuosities; D (fig. 85), interlocking half hitches. The 

 courses of the single actives are given in figs. 154, 155, 157. 158, 159. 



(8) False braiding, chain stitching, etc., of elements so far as not 

 included in other methods. 



(9) Technics not truly textile. Half textiles, A (fig. 91), strips 

 bent hood-shape; B, horizontal seized close to the vertical, horizontals 

 pierce the vertical; C, strips sewed or thatched together, as in hats, 

 etc.; D, two sinuous elements bound together at their contacts 

 (fig. 64). 



T/uitchwork. — On Nicobarese houses ; generally of k 'lallallg ,, grass; 

 sometimes of palm leaf, fastened to vertical rafters of the midribs of 



°Abh. Antlirop.-Etmiog. Museums, l>resden. XI. 1007. 



