ART. 30 DESIGN AEEAS IN OCEANIA KKIEGER H 



exhibited in the National Museum is of interest. The material is 

 finely prepared Phormium tenax, or New Zealand flax, twined 

 with great accuracy and neatness. The border is formed by 

 dividing the warp into numerous strands intertwined with black- 

 dyed flax and red strouding (bayeta), producing lozenge patterns in 

 great variety. The edges of the cloak are bordered with a narrow 

 geometrical pattern of close twining which is continued from the 

 border of the garment. The upper edge is finished with a sewing of 

 red and black cord and is supplied with two tying strings. The robe 

 is a fine example of the best textile work of the Maori. The material 

 has aged to a fine brown color and has taken on a silky luster. Col- 

 lected by Edwin Smith, United States Geological Survey, in 1883. 

 Length, 38 to 45 inches; width, 52 inches; bottom border, 7 inches 

 wide ; side borders, 1 inch wide. 



Tonga-zSamoan art area. — Samoans of to-day have been affected as 

 to the nature of their clothing by the distance from the centers in 

 which the whites live; also the inconvenience of the old Samoan 

 dress has caused them to adopt cotton materials for clothing. The 

 men and children wear a lava lava or loin cloth knotted about the 

 waist and reaching to the knees. The men usually wear a cotton 

 undershirt and on official occasions a white coat. 



The women wear a loose wrapper or a skirt and loose sack, or the 

 skirt may be replaced with a lava lava. At the siva siva, or cere- 

 monial dance, and other purely Samoan ceremonial affairs, olden 

 types of costumes and ornaments are seen, especially those of the 

 women and the costume of the taupo, or village virgin. 



The Samoans are skilled in making mats, buckets, and fans from 

 pandanus and palm leaf, these plants yielding excellent material for 

 the purpose. Mats are made of exquisite fineness and are valued as 

 heirlooms. These mats are trimmed with red feathers of a parrot. 

 Baskets are woven in checker designs in black and natural colors, 

 and fans are constructed in beautiful forms and patterns. There 

 are exhibited in the National Museum wooden dishes, clubs, spears, 

 adzes, combs, fly brushes, ornaments, and a drum. A large kava 

 bowl was presented to President Grover Cleveland by Malietoa, King 

 of Samoa. The exhibit also consists of ceremonial dress, dance head- 

 dress, ornaments, combs, pillows, paddles, spears, and fishing appli- 

 ances. 



Breadfruit, bananas, taro, potatoes, and coconuts furnish the 

 principal food supply, and fish are eaten. The only domesticated 

 animal is the pig. The Samoans are robust and active, their war- 

 like exercise with club and spear, and their constant practice with 

 the canoe paddle developing a fine physique. They are cleanly, and 

 delight in flowers and perfumes. The men excel in woodworking, 



