.u!T. 29 BUFFALO MOTIVE IX MIDDLE CELEBES HOUGH 7 



centurv, though there is no data for this assumption. The turban 

 in India couhl be assigned to the period of the Mogul invasion, but 

 communication from the west occurred during ancient times. 



Bark-ck)th sarongs also prevail, often elaborately decorated. 

 Jackets of bark cloth worn by women show skill in native tailoring 

 and have some of the best examples of water-buifalo designs. 



The localities from which bark cloth was collected by Dr. Raven 

 are either political divisions or towns in central Celebes south of the 

 Gulf of Tomini. They are Koelawi, Wiratoe, Piana, Tomado 

 Lindoe, Bada Toare, and Jimpoa, located on the excellent Dutch 

 map of the Celebes. Differences are observed in the cloth from these 

 localities. Koelawi produces both coarse and fine cloth, as does 

 AViratoe. Piana makes plain cloth for coarser clothing, and from 

 Tomado Lindoe and Bada Toare come the best examples of decora- 

 led specimens. 



BARK CLOTH IN COSTUMES OF MIDDLE CELEBES 



The extent to which bark cloth enters into the costume of the 

 natives and the variety of the parts of costume worn is surprising. 

 Most of the pieces of dress and the adjuncts of dress are of 'bark 

 cloth. Formerly the exclusive use of bark cloth was the rule, but in 

 the accelerating changes introduced from the outside in recent years 

 other materials have appeared. 



Cotton cloth especially has superseded the priinitive bark cloth, 

 dyed cloth of foreign origin. This has affected the traditional uses 

 of bark cloth. Thus jackets, skirts, and headbands are now often 

 lined with cotton and cotton is applied in various ways to bark- 

 cloth garments. The people of the middle Celebes generally prac- 

 tice tailoring; in fact, in this grade are expert tailors. In this 

 respect they are far beyond the Polynesians who wear primitive 

 dress. 



The costume of the middle Celebes tribes nuist be divided into 

 utilitarian and special — that is, the clothing when at work and that 

 on gala or other occasions. Social or official standing also jiresent 

 some modifications of dress. 



Men wear on the head a turban consisting of a square of bark cloth 

 decorated and folded so as to encircle or cover the head witli i)oints 

 projecting at the sides. A sleeveless tailored jacket covers the trunk, 

 and a sarong or waist cloth of bark is wound about the loins. No 

 foot covering is worn. Men carry attached to the loin cloth a squat- 

 ting mat cut from anoa buffalo skin or woven of palm strips. The 

 above, omitting the jacket, describes the man's work costume. He 

 would also carry a pouch or pouches for small articles and a work 

 parang. War parangs have long been obsolete in the middle Celebes. 



