96 SOME WANDEEINGS IN THE NOKTH OF FINLAND. 



steadily np to the watershed, which separates the two 

 countries of Norway and Sweden. There the hills are 

 bare of trees, and patches of snow were to be seen. Now 

 and then, too, the railr6ad is covered by a wooden structure, 

 which is to keep off the snow in the winter. 



We stayed for one afternoon at Storlien, on the water- 

 shed, where by the side of a small tarn we could walk 

 within a few yards of two kinds of wading birds, Red- 

 shanks and Greenshanks — most graceful and charming 

 creatures to see. The Greenshank, especially, would stalk 

 about slowly among the grass, watching us the while, and 

 ducking his head as if with impatience at our daring to 

 disturb him ; and the Redshank kept running about on the 

 leaves of water-lilies, whistling in evident anxiety for j'oung 

 hidden among the reeds and grass. 



Then for two days we travelled northwards in the train, 

 near the east coast of Sweden, through country covered 

 with forest ; always climbing up or down hill or crossing 

 one of the numerous rivers which run eastwards. Country- 

 people often got into the train to travel short distances, 

 and were interested in trying to exchange a few words 

 with foreigners^ while they chewed snuif in large quanti- 

 ties. At last we reached Lulea, a port near the north of 

 the Gulf of Bothnia, where ships take in the rich iron ore 

 which is brought from the mines of Gellivara further 

 north. We went on at once by steamer to Haparanda, at 

 the extreme north of the gulf ; and then a short row in 

 a small boat to Tornea brought us on the threshold of the 

 country we wished to see. When first arriving at Tornea 

 one is surprised to find oneself on the west of the large 

 river of the same name, and not on the east of it, where 

 nearly all the maps place the town. We were told, how- 

 ever, that some years ago the river altered its course, and 



