Repoit of a Journey Around the World. 61 



and the grand music of the great choir of men and boys, unaided 

 by instrument, was more impressive than any organ. There are 

 no seats in Russian churches, and when I stood for more than an 

 hour and a half in the midst of the most democratic congregation 

 I ever saw in a church, without weariness, there must have been 

 something in the service, of which I understood not a single word. 



The beautiful museum on the hill (Fig. 51), built of white 

 marble, was one of the most imposing museum buildings we saw in 

 any city, and the contents were worthy of the temple. As is com- 

 mon in the Russian municipal museums archaeology and ethnology 

 are found in museums mainly devoted to painting and sculpture, 

 and for most visitors the latter totally eclipse the former. 



The palaces also were museums filled often with tragic memo- 

 ries, but the ethnology of the streets was often better worth study. 

 Western and Oriental, high and low, passing in a way even more 

 interesting than in the cosmopolitan crowds of Honolulu. Even 

 the carts were more various than seen elsewhere, and an attempt 

 to gather pictures of all these was at length abandoned as time 

 did not allow. 



When we left Moskau our way was no longer comfortable and 

 direct ; we had rather crooked lines and crowded cars until we 

 passed into Hungary, and after a fine mountain ride in the early 

 morning came to the most beautiful city we had seen, Budapest 

 on the banks of the Danube. Museums of art had been abundant 

 in Russia, but our chief ethnological one was in St. Petersburg. 

 Here in Budapest were museums of every kind from the touching 

 Memorial Museum of the murdered Empress Elisabeth in the 

 upper rooms of the Imperial Palace on the heights of Pest to the 

 very complete Museum of Transportation in the park in Bud a. 

 To describe them all would require a larger volume than this 

 report can reach, but there are two in the attractive park under one 

 roof that come into our line, one for ethnological interest, the other 

 for its thorough organization and completeness. The Museum 

 of Ethnology, Fig. 52 (I omit the Magyar title), shows the Hun- 

 garian peasant life in a way that almost takes us back to Polynesian 

 beginnings. The agricultural implements were often very primi- 

 tive but not the less interesting on that account. Often whole 



rooms of country houses were presented with their occupants in 



[209] 



