Report of a Journey Around the World. 219 



partly draining the neighboring lake, and now the extinction of 

 the "Grand Eaux" of Whakarewarewa are lamentable even from 

 a tourist view. The interesting modern specimen of a Maori carved 

 whare, formerly so attractive under the guidance of Maggie, has 

 been sold to Germany, and that country seems at present to have 

 more specimens from the Pacific region than have all the rest of 

 Europe and the United States. 



Friday, Nov. 15. We had made arrangements and at 9:30 a 

 fine Napier car, six-cylinder, forty-horsepower, was at the door for 

 us. The weather was all that we could expect and we were amply 

 protected from the cold wind. The road was vastly improved since 

 my last trip and we traveled fast. Rainbow Mountain was fine 

 but the plain that sank at the Tarawera eruption and earthquake 

 was not noticeable, as the abrupt edges had worn down greatl}'. 

 At Waiotapu we lunched, having stopped to see by the wayside 

 the mud volcano which was in good action. On we went, arriving 

 at Wairakeiat 2:30, a fifty mile ride. The guide was hunted up and 

 by three we were tramping on the trail to the valley of hot springs 

 a long mile away. We began at the lower end of the exhibition 

 where we found the "steam hammer' ' was muffled by the full creek; 

 however, the various geysers did their duty fairly and Mr. Wilson 

 took a number of shots in the bright sunlight. At the "paint pot" 

 the guide obligingly made me a palette of the various reds, browns 

 and blues found in the layers of the bank. The colors are still 

 bright after twelve months. The champagne pool was too full and 

 active to show its fine blue color and sparkle. The mud pool was 

 very glutinous and "good for rheumatism", so I carried off a small 

 sample of the mud. After three hours we hobbled back to the 

 hotel very weary. The native sweet clematis {Clematis indivisa) 

 was in blossom over the bushes on the way. 



Saturday 16th. Fine morning and the car was read}' at nine, 

 but my secretary, with his benevolent scent, had found a man and 

 his wife whose name he did not know who preferred our car to the 

 stage as a comfortable means of getting to Rotorua, so there was 

 nothing for it but to let them have seats. The car stopped at the 

 Aratiatia rapids, but I remained in my seat while the others climbed 

 up to the show. This took nearly an hour from our time and we 

 got to the usual lunch place at 11:40 and had to wait there about 



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