No. 2.] MATTHEW — IMPRESSIONS OF CUBA. 17' 



such accommodation as pews, to encourage exclusiveness and. 

 somnolency, are not thought of in this hind, and those who 

 will be luxurious, must protect themselves against the chill 

 communicated from the bare stone floor, by mats or carpets, 

 of their own. Another centre of attraction at this early hour 

 is the market. Hither go the dark-skinned domestics with, 

 their long, sack-like baskets of palm-leaf, to gossip, or make 

 purchases. A Babel of tongues — if not for variety, at least for 

 volubility — salutes the ear of one entering the building where the 

 market is held, and a great deal more chaffering accompanies the 

 purchase of a dinner, than a stolid and reticent Northerner would 

 think necessary. Sweet potatoes and their gigantic relative the 

 yam, are presented for sale in large quautities. Eggs and poul- 

 try seem favourite articles of diet ; the poultry are always offered 

 for sale alive, as a prudent housewife in Cuba would hardly ven- 

 ture to buy plucked fowls, on account of the heat of the climate. 

 As I did not visit Cienfuegos during the fruit season, I saw little 

 in market; bananas, with a few oranges, mameys and limes- 

 seemed the staple varieties. The fish offered for sale appear to^ 

 be all of the spiny-finned orders (Acanthopteryges) : of these 

 the Riihia, a beautiful rose-colored fish, not unlike a perch in its 

 form, seemed an especial favorite. There were also prawns, crabs 

 and small oysters. There is a large restaurant near the market 

 where the countrymen (guajiros) may be seen sipping their coffee^ 

 chocolate, or wine, at small tables distributed through the rooms- 

 All appeared temperate and orderly, and there was no " bar." 



In the early morning hours, too, one may see these same giia- 

 jiros, mounted on horse or mule, hawking their charcoal and 

 maloja (green fodder) through the streets. As one of them 

 appears in the early dawn approaching the city, mounted on his 

 beast, with a great pannier or bundle on either side, the group 

 looks not unlike an inverted pyramid, moving quietly yet swiftly 

 towards you, and yet maintaining its equilibrium by some magical 

 power. 



Another class, which one frequently meets with at this time of 

 day, is the huxters, who traverse the city on foot, bringing sup^- 

 plies to the doors of those who cannot visit the market. Among 

 these are a number of Chinamen, who having served out their 

 apprenticeship on the estates, and having a shrewd eye to business, 

 obtain a little stock of vegetables and fruit, which they cry about 

 town ; carrying their wares in trays suspended from the ends of 



