58 B RICH AM ON HAWAIIAN FEATHER WORK. 



color drawings and measurements of the cloaks and capes in the British Museum. And to many 

 other friends, Diredlors and Curators of museums are thanks due for hearty and substantial aid in 

 gathering together the scattered remains of the patient and toilsome work of the ancient Hawaiians. 

 In the diagrams of the ahuula given below the three colors yellow, red and green are represented 

 conventionally, the two colored plates giving the tone, which is the same in all except the mamo. 

 The key to these colors is found in Fig. 49. The drawings have been made from the actual specimens 

 during a hurried visit to the Ethnological Museums of Europe and America, or from photographs sent 

 from private collections or museums not visited, and they will at least ser\-e to identify the .specimens.] 



'red'' 



YELLOW 



:;V:: t:v:>G R E E N x^^:^^:V^ 



FIG. 49. DIAGRAM OF COLORS. 



1. This magnificent cloak, made entirely of the feathers of the mamo 

 {Drcpauis pacifica), may well be placed at the head of the list, as it is not only in 

 superb condition but, so far as is known, is the onl\' one of its kind in existence. It 

 is the historical cloak once belonging to the great Kamehameha, and to the last days 

 of the Hawaiian Monarchy it was used to decorate the throne on public occasions, 

 long after it ceased to be worn as a robe of honor. When its fabrication began neither 

 records nor tradition clearly tell, but there can be little doubt that some of its feathers 

 were plucked during the seventeenth century and the unfinished work ceased in the 

 last quarter of the succeding century. It is believed to have belonged to the ancestors 

 of the king Kalaniopuu who was king of Western Hawaii during Cook's visit, and 

 from him the young Kamehameha inherited the insignia with his portion of the king- 

 dom. The late J. J. Jarves, Historian and Art Critic, in describing this cloak'' says: 



"His Majesty Kauikeaouli has still in his possession the niaiiio or feather war-cloak of his 

 father the celebrated Kamehameha. It was not completed until his reign, having occupied eight 



preceding ones in its fabrication A piece of nankeen, valued at one dollar and a half, was 



formerlv the price of five feathers of this kind. By this estimate the value of the cloak would equal 

 that of the purest diamonds in the several European regalia, and including the price of the feathers, 

 not less than a million of dollars worth of labor was expended upon it at the present rate of com- 

 puting wages." 



On the neck border are a few iiwi feathers, and the present border of purple velvet 

 dates from the reign of Kalakaua. The length is 56 inches; front edges, 46 inches; 

 width at base, 14S inches; weight, 6 pounds. The nae or net of olona is close, uni- 

 form, of a dozen horizontal strips with several triangular pieces, and in perfect con- 

 dition. Given to the Bishop Museum by Legislative enacTtment. No. 6828. 



2. Cloak of 00 {Acruloccrciis nobilis) decorated with triangles of iiwi ( ]'cstiaria 

 coccinca). Plate X. This is of the same age as the preceding and belonged to 

 Kiwalao, son of Kalanioptui, and a brave warrior, slain Ijy Kamehameha who thus 

 obtained the cloak. In late years it has been called "the Queen's Cloak" and has been 



iiHawaiian Speclulor, II., 364 [July, iSjg]. 



