Rnk Loo7n-ivo7<cn Tols 



lOI 



of regret that there is not with either machine a partly finished girdle or tol. Appar- 

 ently they are used exclnsivelj- for weaving the tol or girdle worn in former times 



by a man over his malo 

 or waistcloth, and also for 

 a similar but rather wider 

 garment f o r m e r 1 }• worn 

 by women. With both 

 sexes the style of garment 

 has yielded to the nnpictur- 

 esqne biit cheaper garments 

 of the foreign missionarj' or 

 trader, and the mannfadlure 

 has gone through the vari- 

 ons stages of degradation 

 that an obsolescent fabric 

 always travels. When the 

 native webster obtained 

 from the foreign source 

 worsted, he adulterated the 

 banana fibre with the far 

 less durable wool, and at 

 the same time, or later, 

 adopted the cheap foreign 

 dyes. The old specimens, 

 both of the tol and of the 

 female dress or apron, show 

 original and simple pat- 

 terns, apparently- of western 

 (to them) origin. 



When we examine the 



fabric we find that, taking 



first the warp, this seldom 



exceeds six feet ; in "this the 



pattern is altered by tying 



FIG. 99. TOL OF COMPLICATED pATTKRx. togcthcr sultablc Icugths of 



the desired colors, and in this case the pattern is alike on both sides of the weave. An. 



other way was also used, the common one of sinking the colored thread beneath others at 



intervals, and this was generally used in the transverse patterns, formed by the woof, 



