THROUGH WILD EUROPE 67 



unknown, and that the huge revolvers worn 

 universally are only used in avenging private 

 vendettas, in their feuds with their ancient enemies 

 the Albanians, and in saluting parting friends. All 

 this I had to find out, and I must say that this first 

 experience was by no means pleasant. However, 

 by signs I managed to engage two men and a 

 couple of horses to convey my baggage to the 

 town. As the heavily laden horses toiled uphill 

 through the olive-woods my men, two of the 

 wildest-looking rascals I had ever beheld, beguiled 

 the way with song and laughter, while I walked 

 with them in perfect ignorance of what was going 

 to happen. After an hour's journey over narrow, 

 rocky mountain-paths we reached a small town of 

 grey stone houses built irregularly round the small 

 bay. Then, after descending a narrow, stony road 

 or lane, my conductors halted in front of a building 

 which proved to be the custom-house. The official, 

 a burly man in the national costume of crimson gold- 

 edged jacket, baggy blue breeches, and top-boots, 

 with the inevitable revolver stuck in a scarlet 

 sash, passed all my things without the slightest 

 bother, and I was free to proceed. The only 

 inn appeared to be a small building pleasantly 

 situated on the beach, and here I engaged a room — 

 at least I got my things carried up there — and 

 obtained something to eat and drink ; but as for 



