THROUGH WILD EUROPE 101 



It is quite common to see farmers ploughing their 

 lands with a loaded rifle slung over the shoulder ; 

 and even on the way to church the men all go armed. 

 No doubt there is a close time observed for the 

 actual service, and probably for a certain distance 

 from the church or open-air meeting ; but beyond 

 that there would be no scruple in shooting down an 

 enemy. The majority of the people, especially in 

 the mountains, are Roman Catholics, and very de- 

 vout so far as the wearing of beads and crosses, and 

 the observance of fasts. Beyond that there is not 

 much difference between the Christians and the 

 Mohammedans. The Greek Church, too, has a 

 large following. 



Their chief virtue is that of most savage and 

 uncivilized, or half-civilized, races, hospitality. On 

 riding up to a house the head of the family, if he is 

 in — if not, his wife — comes out and welcomes you, 

 and takes your rifle, which is hung up on the wall. 

 This is a sign that you no longer need to defend 

 yourself, and that he makes himself responsible for 

 your safety. And as a matter of fact, you are then 

 perfectly safe, and he will protect you at the risk of 

 his own life. For the killing of a guest while under 

 his protection can only be avenged with blood, 

 although in certain cases I believe money can be 

 accepted without loss of honour as compensation 

 for the death of a relative. You are then ushered 



