102 BIRD-HUNTING 



into the house, where a dyed sheepskin rug is spread 

 in the place of honour, near the fire of logs which 

 burns in the middle of the floor. A cigarette is 

 rolled and handed to you, while coffee is prepared 

 and brought in on a tray in tiny cups — genuine 

 Turkish coffee, very sweet and thick, and of course 

 without milk. How the taste for it grows on one 

 after a short sojourn in these countries! Unless 

 the people are very poor, raki is also produced, 

 and sour milk or cream cheese. 



In the mountains I was told that a guest is passed 

 on from one village to another, perhaps conducted 

 by a child, with a password or a recommendation. 

 But very few travellers have penetrated to the 

 higher mountains. There the Albanian moun- 

 taineer, as wild and rugged, not to say as savage, 

 as his native mountains, exercises undisputed sway, 

 untroubled by any other authority, Turkish or 

 otherwise. For though nominally under Turkish 

 rule, this is of no practical value beyond the fer- 

 tile lowland country and the towns. There it is 

 confined to exacting as much money as possible 

 and to doing as little as possible in return. The 

 officials, from the governors and valis downwards, 

 obtain their places by bribes. On payment of 

 a certain sum down one is nominated governor, or 

 what not. The first necessity, once he is in power, 

 is to get back this sum, then to amass as much more 



