120 BIRD-HUNTING 



treacherous bogs. Once we stopped for a half- 

 hour's rest and a cup of coffee at a small han, or 

 Turkish inn. Here I was amused at seeing two 

 buffaloes resting from their labours after ploughing, 

 submerged in a small but muddy pond, while their 

 owner plastered them liberally with wet mud scooped 

 up with his hands. This was, of course, to protect 

 them from insects. 



On the way we put up, from a dead and putrid 

 cow, two Sea Eagles and two Egyptian Vultures, 

 the first I had seen in these regions. I should have 

 much liked to wait for their return, but it was too far 

 from anywhere to be worth while. Besides, we were 

 now too large a party, and it didn't seem practicable 

 to stop the whole cavalcade for a doubtful chance of 

 a photograph. Presently we found we were ap- 

 proaching the large lake, which was one of the 

 objects of the expedition to explore, but on the 

 wrong side. The guides had mistaken the direc- 

 tion, and appeared to be in some doubt as to our 

 whereabouts. Finally, after a look at the map, we 

 took charge ourselves, and they had to follow us, 

 which they did at a distance and very unwillingly. 

 The ground was very boggy, even for Albania, and 

 the going was the worst I had ever experienced. 

 Sometimes it proved impossible to proceed, and we 

 had to try another way round ; but after struggling 

 for a couple of hours, and crossing with great 



