THROUGH WILD EUROPE 145 



and decay, two groggy-looking horses harnessed 

 with scraps of leather and bits of rope and string, and 

 driven by a dirty individual in a tattered great-coat 

 and a fez. But this ramshackle turn-out must have 

 been stronger than it seemed or it would never have 

 survived one trip through the town. I thought I 

 knew the worst of Albanian roads, but this chief 

 street, the main thoroughfare of one of the most 

 important towns in Albania, was far worse than any 

 road I have ever seen in any part of the world. 

 Several puddles were, without any exaggeration, up 

 to the axles ; and as our Jehu, standing up in his 

 box, urged on his crazy steeds, one terrific bump 

 nearly sent us out headlong into the mud, and 

 did quite send flying one of my portmanteaux. 

 Djouraschkovitch turned quite white, and said he 

 would get out and walk, ' that he didn't like it ' ; no 

 more did I, but I prevailed on him to sit still ; in fact, 

 I held him in his seat. To tell the truth, I wanted 

 him for ballast ! Alone, and without his weight to 

 steady the affair, I felt that it would be impossible 

 for me to remain in it for a moment ; I should 

 presently be tossed up like a shuttlecock and find 

 myself on my back in a morass. 



It was a great relief at last to find ourselves under 

 a decent roof with a good dinner in front of us. 

 The hotel, to my surprise, was really comfortable 

 and homelike. It was kept by a Serb, assisted by 



