THROUGH WILD EUROPE 157 



demonstration in Dulcigno harbour and compelled 

 the Turks, who were advancing to the attack, to 

 retire, and I can quite believe that if the protection 

 of any country became necessary they would prefer 

 that of England. But I must say that I was very 

 glad when finally, at a very late hour, they retired 

 to their room and left me free to go to bed, for I 

 had had a long and tiring day. 



The next day we boarded the steamer for the 

 return voyage to Scutari. If possible, this steamer 

 was smaller and dirtier than the one in which we 

 had gone to Plavnica. Besides which, the captain, 

 the engineer, the agent, and several passengers were 

 exceedingly drunk on the bridge. Singing and 

 shouting, throwing empty bottles about the deck, 

 and reeling to and fro, they caused a pandemonium 

 I have never seen equalled in any ship in any part 

 of the world — and I have seen some curious sights, 

 too, in my travels. Luckily the steersman and the 

 engineer in charge of the engines were sober, and 

 the weather was fine, so that in due time we reached 

 our destination. 



In my innocence I imagined that, as we had 

 passed the custom-house only three days ago we 

 should have no more trouble ; but I was soon to 

 know better. Luckily I had determined not to 

 bring a gun in case of confiscation, only a revolver 

 in my pocket out of sight ; but the officials quickly 



