THROUGH WILD EUROPE 233 



But the new house, though so well built of stone 

 with tiled roof, could only be entered through the 

 stable ; this is the usual fashion. In two-storied 

 houses the cattle and horses live on the ground 

 floor, and the people above. The smell can be 

 imagined. The same arrangement generally prevails 

 also in Montenegro. 



The fire of logs burnt on the open hearth, round 

 which were spread mats, with sheepskin rugs for 

 guests, on which we all sat cross-legged or reclining 

 against cushions. At night two thin mattresses 

 were unrolled from the corner and spread one on 

 each side of the fire on the earthen floor, one for 

 me, the other for Hilo Kanchay, the elder brother, 

 the rest lay down on the mats about the floor, just 

 as they were. They never remove any of their 

 clothes, even sleeping in their head-gear, the white 

 Albanian fez ; though the head-cloth which is wound 

 round the fez over the head and under the chin is 

 taken off on entering the house. It is not con- 

 sidered good form to step on the mats in boots. On 

 approaching the fire, boots, or opankis — the raw-hide 

 sandals generally worn — are taken off, and left at the 

 edge ready to be resumed on rising. 



An hour before the midday meal or the evening 

 meal, bottles of raki, colourless spirit flavoured with 

 aniseed, were brought out and passed round, and a 

 plate of sour milk cheese, eaten in the fingers, placed 



