THROUGH WILD EUROPE 235 



family after devoutly crossing himself, and a large 

 slab placed in front of each person. Then a bowl 

 of stewed meat was brought in and put in the middle 

 of the table. Each man then dipped his spoon in 

 that part of the central dish which was opposite to 

 him, using the slab of bread as a plate, or fished 

 out a piece of meat with the fingers. I used an 

 aluminium plate out of my basket, and generally 

 had first dip out of the dish. The cooking was 

 really very good, the meat tender and well flavoured, 

 and the home-made maize bread excellent. But 

 during Lent they fast rigorously, living entirely on 

 bread, cheese, and huge leeks, the biggest I have 

 ever seen. In the morning before riding off into 

 the forest I used to have a jug of hot buffalo 

 milk, with bread broken into it. This buffalo 

 milk is better and richer than any cow's milk, and 

 the cheese from it is first-rate. These ungainly- 

 looking animals are largely used for beasts of burden, 

 ploughing, and for pulling the curious carts of the 

 country with huge solid wheels about eight feet 

 across, which make a slow and tedious progress of 

 about two miles an hour, to the accompaniment of 

 the most hideous and unearthly groanings and 

 creakings. The first time I heard one of these 

 carts I couldn't for the life of me imagine what was 

 coming, for I could hear the noise long before I could 

 see the cause of it. 



