THROUGH WILD EUROPE 239 



in all their clothes, including the fez } they pour a 

 pint of water over the hands, and give their face a 

 dab with their wet hands, still with the fez on, and 

 that is all. At night they used to be exceedingly 

 interested and amused in seeing me undress and 

 wash, and get into my pyjamas and sleeping-bag for 

 the night. 



The log-fire, alongside of which we lay, was kept 

 going all night, and I always slept like a top ; but 

 my companions — and I noticed the same thing in 

 Montenegro — though in perfect health all day, 

 coughed all night as though in the last stage of 

 consumption, and spat all over the floor in the most 

 disgusting fashion. Luckily they draw the line at 

 spitting on the mats ; this is never done. 



On leaving these hospitable people I wanted to 

 give them something, but it would never have done 

 to have offered them money. The difficulty was got 

 over by my giving one brother my watch, a cheap 

 American 5s. one, and the elder one was immensely 

 pleased with my spurs. He had borrowed them to 

 ride into the town on his showy little grey stallion, 

 and had evidently taken a great fancy to them, though, 

 truth to say, I didn't like parting with such old friends, 

 which have accompanied me into many parts of the 

 world for at least thirty-five years. However, I had 

 nothing which would have pleased him so much, and 

 they had to go. As it happened I wanted them badly 



