262 BIRD-HUNTING 



men, I fancy they would fare still worse than 

 they do. 



The whole of the Danube Delta is in the hands 

 of the Administration, and it would have been im- 

 possible for me to have made this expedition without 

 their sanction, for there are strict laws as to the pro- 

 tection of birds as well as to the catching of fish, and 

 their officials everywhere have much power. But the 

 fishing population are an unruly lot, and it is much 

 easier to make laws in Bucharest than it is to enforce 

 them in such a desolate region. There is much 

 contraband fishing, in and out of season, and whole- 

 sale and systematic breaking of the bird protection 

 orders is carried on everywhere. 



The inspector's boat was a fine, large, open craft, 

 fitted with two masts, each carrying a large sprit- 

 sail, and with a crew of three men — Russians. She 

 was a very fast sailer with a good wind, and was 

 built on beautiful lines ; and I spent ten most inter- 

 esting and sometimes exciting days on board of her. 

 But the inspector, a Roumanian ex-sergeant of the 

 army, was unable to speak any language but his 

 own, though for the first two days I had the 

 advantage of the company of the secretary of 

 the Administration, M. Panaitescu, who spoke 

 excellent French, as do all the educated classes in 

 Roumania. 



The beginning of our journey we made under tow, 



