

.~1, 







Figure 8. — Dress of a French woman (back view) 

 showing the manner in which the bodice was laced 

 and the hood fell at the back. The skirt is raised, 

 revealing the farthingale petticoat with the roll at 

 its hem which contained cane stiffening [verdugo). 

 From Omniu?!! gentium habitus . . . ,1563ed. (Cour- 

 tesy of Victoria & Albert Museum, London.) 





Figure 9. — Dress of a noblewoman of Mantua. 

 From Vecellio, De gli habiti antichi e modemi, 1 590. 

 {Courtesy of Victoria & Albert Museum, London.) 



century, ''^ but was not adopted in France, Italy, and 

 England until the second half of the 16th century. 



The next development in the history of the fashion 

 plate is found in tiie costume books by Cesare Vecellio, 

 published in Venice in 1590 and 1598.-° \'ecellio, a 



" For the origin of this Spanish fashion n 1470, see Carmen 

 Bernis Madrazo, Indumenlaria medieval espanola (1956), p. 50, 

 pi. 158. 



-0 There are two editions of the book by Cesare \'ecellio: 

 De gli habiti antichi e modemi . . . (Venice: Zenaro, 1590 

 [Italian text]); Habiti Antichi e Moderni (Venice: Sessa, 1598 

 [Italian and Latin text]). The quality of the woodblocks and 

 impressions varies considerably. 



member of the same family as Titian, showed tlte 

 costume of the diflferent ranks of society in the various 

 Italian cities and states, in the other countries of 

 Europe, and indeed in the know-n world; he also 

 depicted a number of antique and old-fashioned 

 dresses. Unfortunately, the illustrations (fig. 9) by 

 Cliristoph Krieger, whose name was Italianized as 

 Guerra, are not as good as \'ico's, and Krieger died 

 before the series was complete. But \'ecellio took 

 great pains to secure accurate and up-to-date informa- 

 tion about fashions, and he received letters and draw- 

 ings from his friends in various cities of Italy. Master 

 Erasino Falte of Parma sent him particulars of the 



PAPER 60 : ORIGIN AND EARLY HISTORY OF THE F.A,SHION PL.\TE 



73 



