Figure 30. — Plate showing fashionable dress at 

 Weymouth. From The Lady's Magazine, 1774. 

 {Courtesy of Victoria & Albert Museum, London.) 



had as an objective the formation of a sort of picture 

 gallery of costume portraits of English ladies. Hei- 

 deloff called it a Repository, wliich is what we would 

 call an archive today, but the term came to be used 

 by Rudolph Ackermann for his general magazine, 

 The Repository of the Arts . . . , published between 

 1809 and 1828 (see p. 89). The ladies in Heideloff's 

 aquatints are all different in the sense that they are 

 dressed differently and doing different things, but 

 the variations are mostly fanciful (fig. 31). In fact, 

 the Heideloff prints served to fill picture books or 

 to be pinned up or framed on walls; they do not 

 differ greatly in their approach from the series of the 

 Bonnarts and their contemporaries during the reign 

 of Louis XIV. 

 It is not proposed to give an account here of the 



Figure 31 . — Print of a lady in a court dress ballooned 

 out by side hoops, by N. Heideloff. The print does 

 not attribute this fashion to any specific year. 

 From the Gallery of Fashion, 1798. (Courtesy of 

 Victoria & Albert Museum, London.) 



various magazines in the different countries which 

 contained illustrated articles on fashion from 1770 

 onward, since this would merely repeat material in 

 Mr. Vy\'yan Holland's book. Mention should be 

 made, however, of the movements for dress reform 

 motivated either by economic considerations or na- 

 tional feeling. Pamphlets and articles on these sub- 

 jects were usually without illustrations, except when 

 concerned with the revival or creation of a national 

 costume.''- Sweden was the only country where, 

 thanks to the enthusiasm of King Gustavus III, the 

 wearing of national dress was more than an archaizing 

 affectation. Dr. E\-a Bergman ^'' has described the 

 origins of this Swedish national dress in a book that 



*- Justus Moscr of Osnabruck, a prolific writer in the 17703^ 

 discussed, in his Patriotische Fantasien, not only national dress 

 but whether magazines should deal with ladies' fashions. 



" Eva Bergman, Xalionella Draktcn (.Stockholm, 1938). 



88 



BULLETIN 250 : CONTRIBLTTIONS FROM THE MUSEUM OF HISTORY AND TECHNOLOGY 



